TOPIC:

Here's the back ground on this bike.

My pop's purchased it in 89', and drove it for a few years.

According to the last tag on the license plate, the last time it was run was back in 99’.

After some coercing, I managed to talk him into donating the bike to me. I went out and got my temps, registered it, and started work on the beast.

Here’s what I’ve gone through so far –

1.) Would not power up with a new battery. Ended up being a bad ignition switch connection in the headlight. Fixed it, and there was power.

2.) Would not start. My dad said he had cleaned the carbs the year before in an attempt to revive the beast, but he wasn’t getting a spark. He thought it was the coil, so he purchased one on eBay. Still no spark. Took both coils and had them tested. Both tested good. I was told the plug end caps go bad, so I picked up a set (and still no spark). Ordered a tune up kit with points and a condenser, and put some new NGK plugs in. Ended up being the condenser. Set the timing, gapped the point, and she fired up.

3.) I burnt the starter up with all the attempts in getting it to start due to issue #2. The starter was on its way out, but now it’s gone.

4.) Got it to run, but poorly. I ended up pulling the carbs apart, and some of the jets were plugged. Some air compressor action and guitar string later, and she runs like a champ.

5.) Now that I was able to ride the beast, the clutch lever snapped off. It was cracked from apparent prior “rigging”, and completely fell apart. Found a guy with a couple of KZ’s in his bone yard, and picked up a clutch lever from him for 5 bucks. Also bought an airbox, which was also missing (the bikes always run filter less).

6.) Now I’m riding the bike. My first venture out, I get about a mile from home. She dies. Apparently the bike wasn’t charging. Tracked that down to a melted main fuse (which has happened several times. The fuses haven’t blow, but the solder in the end caps have melted off. I attributed this to poor contacts. Cleaned them up and I’ve been good since). After the first 10 blocks, it started to get heavy

Changed the oil and filter, added some fuel filters, and I’ve put probably 30 miles on it around town. Even got so brave as to take it to work one day.

Here’s my current problem. The clutch lever pull is very hard and lacking in smoothness. It does work the clutch, but it’s very stiff to pull. The cable looks new, so whatever the cable attaches to and moves is probably binding due to rust or dried crusty lube.

It’s also hard to find neutral. It feels like the clutch is still dragging even though I’ve got the handle pulled. I can adjust this out somewhat, but then the clutch will slip when I get on it.
I want to take the side cover off where the foot shifter is, but will I have to drain the oil? I just put fresh stuff in and don’t want to spend another 15 bucks on more. I have nothing clean to catch it in.

Also, I want to pull the starter and test it with no load on it (to determine if it’s the motor or starter clutch). Do I just unbolt the starter cover, and pull it out, or do I have to remove anything else?

Thanks in advance. My first road worth bike and she’s a blast! Can’t wait to start cleaning it up once I get the mechanical kinks worked out!

It feels good to get a bike going again...what bike is it exactly?

Modify your signature in your forum profile and add the year, model, your location, etc.

76 KZ400, it's got a front disc brake and not a drum. Does that mean it's a KZ400S or KZ400D? I've always wondered on that one.

I'm located in Appleton, WI.

wreckedmyteg wrote:

76 KZ400, it's got a front disc brake and not a drum. Does that mean it's a KZ400S or KZ400D? I've always wondered on that one.

I'm located in Appleton, WI.

It's a "D". Congratulations on all your successes!

As for the starter, could you describe the sound (or lack of it) of the starter? Or even post a sound file? That will make it easier to help you.

wreckedmyteg wrote:

...It’s also hard to find neutral. It feels like the clutch is still dragging even though I’ve got the handle pulled. I can adjust this out somewhat, but then the clutch will slip when I get on it.

Hmm. Do you have a manual? Are you following the correct procedure for tightening the clutch cable?
What oil did you use? I'm concerned that you might have put auto oil with additives that could be causeing your clutch to slip....

Ditto on the oil...you're going to have to use m/c oil for it, sorry.
Nuetral can be a pain to find on my KZ400 unless you're rolling a little. I sometimes feel like a real idiot sitting in a parking lot, click-klank! click-klank! Finally just shut it off and then of course you forget it's not in nuetral when you strap your case of Corona on the seat and almost dump the bike. Been there, man. Get your idle perfect and after some experience you'll be finding nuetral like the Japs actually intended to put one between first down and second up...not between third and fourth halfway through an intersection. (That's called a false nuetral. Overrevving behind an Escort with a 12 of Corona on the seat behind you is pretty cool.)

Sendhendrix wrote:

Ditto on the oil...you're going to have to use m/c oil for it, sorry....

Just to clarify, I didn't mean to use only MC oil, I just meant use oil without additives, be it MC-specific oil or an auto oil without additives, like Rotella and others....

The oil and filter were picked up from a local power sports shop. It's Kendal 10w-40. The guy was very knowledgeable and I don’t think he would’ve sold me the wrong product. He’s the guy that also has two 400’s in his back yard and sold me the clutch lever and air box.

On a side note – it had the same problem before I changed the oil so I don’t think it’s related. Feels more like there’s something rusted up in there.

The side cover where the foot shifter is is the sprocket cover. Unlike my Triumph, which takes the $13/liter full-synth oil, your KZ does *not* need to be drained to get access to that cover. That's where the clutch cable linkage & push rod live. Be careful to look at how the linkage is put together, maybe take some pics, befor eyou take it apart. (DAMHIK. )

The clutch mechanism itself is on the opposite side of the bike. That cover does require draining the oil.

HTH,
-Kit