Police KZ1000P clutch issues

Hello all,

I just purchased a 2002 KZ1000P. I am having some clutch issues and I am hoping someone might have some insights:

Specifically, the rear tire spins when the clutch is fully pulled in. I have gone through the full procedure for the clutch adjustment (set screw, midpoint adjuster, and lever adjustment). I understand that this can be expected when the bike up in the air, however, the bike pulls ahead on me when I'm idling in first gear with the clutch pulled in. I have considered replacing the clutch pack but I have seen this solution applied to clutch slippage not clutch drag.

Any recommendations for troubleshooting and or aftermarket clutch packs?

thanks in advance and hello from Texas

Sounds like it is not fully disengaging. I would suggest playing with the adjustment more.

I'm not sure exactly what the procedure you are using, but the cable needs to be completely slack, then the push rod / release mechanism on the sprocket cover needs to be properly set. You turn the screw in, then back off just slightly loose, maybe 1/4 turn.. THEN set the cable to a small amount of freeplay at the lever.

I used to have slippage when pouring on the coals, but NOW it's just the opposite with new OEM plates. It wants to GO! lol Sometimes the plates will stick after sitting for a while, and need to be jammed a bit to free them up.

Clearly the OP doesn't have enough clutch plate separation or he has some seriously heavy weight oil in the engine. Redo your clutch adjustment because something isn't quite right here. As explained loosen cable completely and adjust the release adjuster. Turn in until you feel resistance and then back out the screw 1/2 turn. Hold the screw in place as you tighten down the locknut. Adjust your cable properly and you should be all set. Remember to loosen the cable completely before adjusting the screw. It's possible your cable has stretched to the point it can't be adjusted anymore, but you should be able to tell if that's the case by how far out the outer cable adjuster goes.
Rick H.

Here is a snip from my OEM service manual for clutch adjustment. Your P model with the J motor should be similar.

In some rare cases (Long period of no use), the clutch friction and steel plates are glued together and need to be seperate by hand and need a 24h bath of new engine oil.

Or warped steels from heat , or rust , or who knows without removing plates and doing a inspection of ALL parts.
One gasket is all it takes.
Dave

Street Fighter LTD wrote: Or warped steels from heat , or rust , or who knows without removing plates and doing a inspection of ALL parts.
One gasket is all it takes.
Dave

All great advice. As Dave stated, if you are having clutch issues, Dissect it and inspect everything carefully. The release mechanism under the sprocket cover (if the one with all of the little 1/8" steel bearing balls) is quite the can of worms to disassemble, clean, lube, then reassemble. Not for the faint of heart. It may not be functioning properly. Be sure to clean and inspect this with your "patient" attitude in place.

The OEM clutch plates also have orientation to look for when installing the friction plates. I have them laid out in the proper orientation in the clean oil soaking pan during re-assembly to make assembly a little closer to idiot proof.

The steels also have a "sharp" side that can affect disengagement on the clutch hub. The basket should not have grooves worn where the plates ride to prevent the plates from hanging up. All part of the term "inspect".

thank you all for your help.

I have the following updates:

I replaced the clutch cable as this seemed to be the cheapest ad easiest component to replace in an effort to diagnose the issue. I have adjusted the clutch as per the instructions; loosening the cable, turning the adjustment screw counter clock wise then 1/4" turn back (this is what the Clymer manual prescribes- I have seen some people run into issues when they turn it clockwise then half a turn back instead).

The short end of it is that the clutch still drags; the symptoms are much more pronounced when the engine is cold, but slightly present after riding for a few minutes.

Oil levels are fine. 10W40 put in about a year ago (has not been driven much since then).

Should I be looking at replacing the clutch friction plates?

thanks to all in advance

I hope you meant clockwise direction on the adjuster screw. otherwise your not adjusting it correctly... follow the directions Old_kaw posted for you...

The clymer manual very clearly states counterclockwise for the more common chain driven models. Am I missing something?

counter clockwise 1/4 turn out on the adjuster screw after you have turned it clockwise till you feel resistance. you mentioned " loosening the cable, turning the adjustment screw counter clock wise then 1/4" turn back"

We are talking about the release adjuster screw under the clutch cover inspection plate as shown in drawing 2-22 that Old_kaw posted for you