TOPIC:

baldy110 wrote:

RustToRedemption wrote: Just to wrap this up, for anyone looking in the future if they have a similar problem these are the things that fixed my no start issue:
Valves: Check and set clearances per manual
Points: Clean and set clearances
Timing: Verify timing is correct
After the above 3 were performed, I verified spark.

Air Filter: Cleaned and re-oiled air filter to ensure proper air flow was entering carb.

Carbs: #1 rebuild kits are garbage, don't use the supplied jets or needle, they may physically fit, but they are not correct for a stock configuration. #2 cleaned carb and jets by soaking/ultrasonic, blew compressed air through every passage to verify they were clear. #3 checked and adjusted float height
After all of this was performed, and I hooked up the gas tank to the carb, I opened drain screw to verify gas was entering the carb (this is what led me to perform #3 above).

So what you are saying is perform required maintenance? Who would have ever thought that lack of maintenance would be a problem.

Apparently the PO didn't think it would be an issue. Which is how I bought it for super cheap as a "non-runner"

By RustToRedemption: Could be, but unlikely. The battery was brand new, and then was on a tender when it wasn't being used. I verified battery charge with a voltmeter prior to trying to get it to start the second time in case I had zonked the battery (I hadn't).

Even if new, I would do a simple headlight high beam load test (engine off). Charging can give a battery a surface charge that tests normal on your multimeter, but if the battery is bad, the load test voltage will drop significantly lower. The test is easy & eliminates an unknown. A digital multimeter is preferable for these voltage checks. I use a VC97 digital multimeter & Ctek US 0.8 smart charger.
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