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I synced the carbs and took the bitch out for a ride. Seems too be good i loosened the cam chain about a qtr turn seems quieter. Idle is a bit funny but I have 100 octane in it and she may be a bit fat on the mains. Havn't put a timing light on it yet either. Also I put my hand on the valve cover where the cam caps are it seems a little hot but it feels like it's about the same temp as everything else it's probably just me worrying a little too much. It has new bushings in it. Where can I get one of those cool temp gauges that go on the motor? For oil temp

menace wrote: . Where can I get one of those cool temp gauges that go on the motor? For oil temp

Great news that you have got it sorted.
Don't bother with the oil temp gauge that screws in the filler cap.
They don't actually go in the oil so are a bit useless and are for looks only.

What would be the best route for a temp indicater ?

To be honest you don't really need one and whatever temp it reads will be insignificant as there's not much you could do about it anyway except fit an oil cooler.
There are some sensors ( Trailtech Vapor speedos for one ) that read the temp of the cylinder head which could be slightly more useful ( but not much in day to day use ) and these use a sensor wire which is held on by one of the spark plugs.
In all my 38 years of running and racing these bikes knowing the actual oil or engine temp has never really been of any use.
If you must fit some sort of visible indicator then an oil pressure gauge installed in the pressure port at the end of the main oil gallery near the ign housing is more practical than anything else.

I am glad you got your cam problems worked out. Been there, done that. These are some tricky engines / cams to set up. I do believe I heard a few new cuss words while watching Steve's video.. LOL My feelings exactly. :-/

They are simple yet complicated in my opinion it's the manual that fall short if I was using the correct mark on the cam I would of had it running weeks ago. what carbs are you using I was thinking about the flat slides for mine

menace wrote: They are simple yet complicated in my opinion it's the manual that fall short if I was using the correct mark on the cam I would of had it running weeks ago. what carbs are you using I was thinking about the flat slides for mine

Probably one of the truest statements I think I have ever read on these motors. "Simple yet complicated". My carbs are the stock 81 BS-34's, I think?? My bike is almost completely stock, or as close as I can get. The pic was last January after a complete tear-down, soda blasting / cleaning, SS fasteners, and replacement of the fuel enrichment plunger caps. Expensive little devils, they are. (says yoda) IMO 60 bucks for 4 little rubber booties is kinda pricey.







There really are some great guys on this site, that give some solid, helpful info. You all know who you are!

nice man . i did a plug reading on my bike last night and the electrode is white on the plug and its also running to its full potential . I have a vance and hines uni pod foams and the 1075 kit. im going from a 120 main a step up on the pilot and the stock needles one clip from the bottom to a 127.5 to me that seems kind of like a large jet for my application. Also does this thing have a master carb to sync the rest of the carbs?

nice man . i did a plug reading on my bike last night and the electrode is white on the plug and its also not running to its full potential . I have a vance and hines uni foam pod filters and the 1075 kit i have a step up on the pilot and the stock needles are one clip up from the bottom. im going from a 120 main to a 127.5 to me that seems kind of like a large jet for my application. Also does this thing have a master carb to sync the rest off of

A quick guide to sync the carbs:
first sync #3 with #4, (#3 is the master, all other are the slaves)
then sync #1 with #2 ( independent with #3 and #4 values)
then sync the pairs (#1 + 2) with (#3 + 4)
do little 1/10 turns only, every little turn interact with the other carb vacuum.
Repeat the steps until you get the minimum difference on all carbs.
Close the damper valves to reduce pointer vibrating to a minimum but do not totally close them.



If a carb sync seems to be very difficult to adjust or the values on the vacuum gauge change every time you pull the throttle could be a sign of a vacuum leak at the intake boots, a leaking valve or bad compression by piston rings.
A misfire during a carb sync or a fully open damper valve,(shaking pointer), can easily destroy your vacuum gauge mechanic.
One special note before you do a carb sync is to do a sync test on your vacuum gauge to verify all clocks showing the same value on one vacuum port.

Thats some pretty solid info thanks. i have them set all across the board perfect but i didnt set them to the master i just made them all even. Should i redo it then?

If you have even vacuum readings with even compression/ignition timing everything should be okay. The self sync test of the vacuum clocks required.