TOPIC:

Thank you all for the kind answers. The TK22 webpage is very helpful. That's exactly my carb.

No, I haven't done the adjustment with the 0.5 mm wire - I'll check it out. On the other hand i haven't touched the top adjustment screws with the locknut. The position is the same as before. I also haven't touched the pully and the throttle cables are fully disconnected.

I'm so confused because the bike ran before -- not perfectly - but it did. According to a local mechanic it needed just a good carb cleaning.

Also - I don't want to sound disrespectful, but to me such a 'small' adjustment can't make the engine rev soooo high, can it? I can see the slider sitting on the brass ring around the needle - the needles are also new btw.

Weird thing is that when I started the engine for the first time after the rebuild it did not do that. The float needles were leaking - the overflows in the bowls let gas go out - but than it got slowly worse and worse. As I chnaged the needles the float needles stopped to leak and exactly at this moment the engine started to have issues with high idle. It was like slowly rising to 4000 and then bouncing around that. In the beginning it did run with choke at 2000 rpm (What i thought was normal) but every time I have put the choke down - BAAAM rpm jumped to around 6500 and was rising!

Now its 7000+ with or without choke....

Maybe a lean fuel condition by a low fuel float bowl high AFTER FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE CHANGE:.
Check the float bowl high and if needed correct it with the tang on the float #'76
and be sure ALL jets are clean and not clogged by dirt in the tank (fuel filter?)
No one knows who work with "two left hands" on your carbs before,: I have seen incredible things after/before a carb rebuilt by PO´s.
Some times small things effect a big problem.
Pull the carbs and re-check the internals are clean.







may the force be with you

If you replaced the needles with no-name kits, see this page about the fake needles.
You may be better off with your original needles if that's the kit you bought.
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/TK22mainPage/TK2...TK22rebuildKits.html

Also, if you changed the needles, there is a chance one of your slide holders is not seated properly. That can hang the throttle open and cause your exact symptom. This sounds like it may be your problem. You will have to check the slides.
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/TK22mainPage/TK2.../TK22needleSwap.html

If you need to shim the needles, this is how to do it properly so the slide holder sits properly.
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/TK22mainPage/TK2...shimmingNeedles.html

1/16th throttle is enough to go 50mph, so yes, small throttle openings can have a dramatic effect on RPM.

The best way to check the slides is to look at the engine side of the carb and look at the sliver of light coming through underneath the slide. You can still do it from the intake side if you have a really good method of measuring the slide height precisely, but the cutaway makes it a little harder measure.

AHH yes! Now I feel we could be on a good way.

To start - the needles - the bike was idiling super high even with the original needles. I changed them just because they came with the kit and I was trying out all possible things to get the engine running. So with original and aftermarket needles NO CHANGE.
But I will definitely check the sliders and needles and all the positions - I'll take a special attention to that.

Thanks for those great links - very very hepful. Unbeliveable that so small throttle openings can rev the engine so high !

Anyway - yes the guy who owned this bike before me was terribly useless. All threads ripped off, crazy electric solutions - a nightmare. So I'd say the carb has been touched by him too ...

I was thinking about the float height all the time - but wasn't sure if it could cause my issue. I'll check that! Should be 3,5 mm +/- 1 from the edge of the bowl.

The jets are brand new came in the kit - so clean - main jet 92 and the pilot 32. Engine did the same thing even with original jets. I have completely redone the fuel tank so it's spotless inside. I blackened the steel outside and inside.

I'm unfortunatelly out of my house till friday now :/ so I can't test the bike. But is there something else that I should focus on ?

Could it be linked with timing? Or the different oil or valves ? My red oil pressure light is on - but i'd say the sensor is broken ...

.

Couldn't running stock sized jets with no filter also cause a high revving problem??

blackumi wrote: Couldn't running stock sized jets with no filter also cause a high revving problem??

Not really. It just coughs and sputters. The idle will hang momentarily, but then drop and possibly stall.

Now, if the mechanic compensates by increasing the idle knob, then it will try to idle on the main. That could cause it to idle super high, but that is the mechanic controlling it to do that. The situation here is that the knob is out of the equation, and the idle is high for no apparent reason. This leads to suspicion of a mechanical malfunction of the carb linkage and related hardware.

loudhvx wrote:

blackumi wrote: Couldn't running stock sized jets with no filter also cause a high revving problem??

Not really. It just coughs and sputters. The idle will hang momentarily, but then drop and possibly stall.

Now, if the mechanic compensates by increasing the idle knob, then it will try to idle on the main. That could cause it to idle super high, but that is the mechanic controlling it to do that. The situation here is that the knob is out of the equation, and the idle is high for no apparent reason. This leads to suspicion of a mechanical malfunction of the carb linkage and related hardware.

ah yes that makes sense. this must be a sticky slide or something, or the idle screw being misadjusted during the sync. I know that's been suggested, just repeating for my own understanding lol

Dear everyone, PROBLEM SOLVED!

It was the stupid pully screw! Sorry for telling u that the problem remained - I tried it with choke on which changed the setting to fast idle again.

Choke down - bike runs mint! Adjusted the rest of stuff and took it for the first ride ever today. Man it was such a great feeling.

It was stupid from me to think, that such a small adjustment couldn't be the cause.

Loudhvx you were right. I'll post a video later.

Thx again!

Scirocco wrote

Some times small things effect a big problem.

Good to hear that your bike runs again like a purring cat.
Keep on posting your bike project progress.

Michael

Here video as promised. It's running !! I'll do the vacuum sync and then I'd like to focus on the rest of the mods. New seat, rear loop, bigger front tire, smaller indicators and some decals.

I'll keep u all updated with the build.

Thank you very much

Here is a short video of the the bike running after the carburetor synchronisation. The idle is set a bit too high, but otherwise I'm happy with that.