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Tacho Drive... 16 May 2017 02:41 #762010

  • biker_smith
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Hi all,
I've just bought a KZ650 LTD E1 1980 - the output for the tacho drive guide in the head - is that screwed in (part number 92087010)?
First I've removed the holder plate and screw.
It just turns on a socket but is very very tight and does not seem to be coming out.
Is it pushed in and held in by the plate alone?
If it is just pushed in any tips on getting it out as its so tight?
Reason for all this is the seal has gone and leaking oil over the front of the engine.
Thanks - Paul.

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Tacho Drive... 16 May 2017 03:47 #762011

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Yes, it is pushed in and it is very tight for some reason. Just need to keep working it back and forth while trying not to damage the fins or the tachometer gear. You will want to purchase a new guide, o-ring and the inner seal. It helps if when you twist it back and forth to try to push it out at the same time. For sure a job to test your patience.
1981 KZ550-D1
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Tacho Drive... 16 May 2017 04:21 #762012

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Mine was always so tight I left it when doing my first shim job and carefully lined up the gear ...... tried again when I sent the head in for re working and gave up and let APE do it..... maybe a little penetrating oil and gently tapping on the inside with a punch while turning it too very carefully.... I suppose a heat gun would help too... for some reason I never tried that....I never could get mine to even turn so your half way there.
1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.
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Tacho Drive... 16 May 2017 05:08 #762013

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Good info guys - thanks for your help. Paul.

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Tacho Drive... 16 May 2017 06:16 #762020

  • RonKZ650
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I've had my KZ1000 34yrs now which is the same setup, and I've never got that thing out yet. Gave up on that job. Besides the seal and oring there is also a paper gasket that goes on the end of the tach cable that seals the cable to the drive. Part #92065-103. This gasket is always missing, and seldom mentioned as a source of leaks, but on my KZ1000 simply installing the missing gasket cured all leakage as that drive is never going to come out of mine. Might try that first.
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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Tacho Drive... 16 May 2017 08:06 #762028

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RonKZ650 wrote: I've had my KZ1000 34yrs now which is the same setup, and I've never got that thing out yet. Gave up on that job. Besides the seal and oring there is also a paper gasket that goes on the end of the tach cable that seals the cable to the drive. Part #92065-103. This gasket is always missing, and seldom mentioned as a source of leaks, but on my KZ1000 simply installing the missing gasket cured all leakage as that drive is never going to come out of mine. Might try that first.


That is a good point. That part is in there so tight that it probably is not leaking from the o-ring. If you haven't messed your old guide up too much, it might be worth a try to replace just that seal and paper gasket. On my bike, I messed the guide up so bad trying to take it out, was committed to getting it out and replacing it, instead of having to look at ugly buggered up part on the engine. Good luck!
1981 KZ550-D1

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Tacho Drive... 16 May 2017 08:21 #762030

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Just had a go and it came out.
20mm spanner on it, lots of WD40 penetrating oil and a screwdriver tapped into the gap between the back of the flats on the guide and the head which applied some pressure to lever it out.
Lots of back and forth with the spanner and pushing on the screwdriver as a lever - it came out - result.
Regards - Paul.

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Tacho Drive... 16 May 2017 21:14 #762058

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A leak-proof connection of the tach cable at the tach drive housing will allow leakage past the inner shaft seal to collect within the cable sheath.



Any leakage past the o'ring(s) around the tach drive housing doesn't enter the cable sheath, so it goes onto the fins.

Ideally, the inner shaft seal should prevent escape of any oil whatsoever through the tach housing, even without the cable being attached. And the o'ring(s) should prevent escape of any oil around the tach housing.

The inner seal is replaceable, as the old leaking seals have gotten hard and crusty (likely requiring a dental pick style tool to dig out and remove all remnants of the old seal.)







Without the tach cable attached, a cross country ride should be possible without any leakage through or around the tach housing. Without the cable attached, it's possible to see the spinning end of the inner shaft, which is supposed to stay completely dry and leak-free.

Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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