KZ1000 valve/cylinder head cover bolt torque

About the only thing I have yet to see debated on a forum is....... which brand of toilet paper is best :woohoo:

I like Charmin

LarryC wrote: About the only thing I have yet to see debated on a forum is....... which brand of toilet paper is best :woohoo:

whichever is within arm's reach.....

I just use old Clymer's manuals in the outhouse. Ed

You'll never beat a good old 1/4" drive ratchet, 10mm socket and a feel for aluminum....especially on cam cap bolts. You can toss the service manual procedure for torquing cam cap bolts in the toilet too. It's as wrong and wrong gets.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe beam torque wrenches are very accurate and linear across the entire torque range. People that have tested that specific model have said it was within 4% or less near the extremes. I'm not sure if that wrench would be considered "mechanical", it's just a bendy bit of metal. Regardless, it will be more accurate than my guesswork.

When you strip enough threads, you'll stop using a toque wrench on small bolts. When removing a bolt from aluminum, you have to feel if it is coming out smoothly or is binding. It's a good idea to turn it back and forth a little before removing fully. This is most important if the bolt has been in there for a long time. I use a short wrench to work on these kind of bolts. On the Phillips type, I use a hand impact driver to remove them. It's best to replace them with Allens. If not, just put them in and give a couple taps with a hammer to make them snug. These drivers are spring loaded so not much force should be needed. Too much and you will snap the heads right off. Steel and aluminum don't like each other and the bolt has a nasty habit of taking the threads with it. Sometimes it's unavoidable but with practice, you won't be spending time repairing stripped threads and riding more.
Steve

87 in/lb is even pushing it. Safer at about 65 in/lb. Leaking end plugs are not from lack of torque, just from being bad and leaking. You can seal them all day, use RTV, Yamabond, whatever, sealing does not work. If they leak, they need to be replaced. Some have luck resealing, but my personal experience is sealing a leaking plug is a waste of time and effort, as it will leak again, most likely right away.

blakeem wrote: Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe beam torque wrenches are very accurate and linear across the entire torque range. People that have tested that specific model have said it was within 4% or less near the extremes.

That spec typically means +/-4% of the full scale reading. Beam wrenches are more accurate low than clickers but I still would not use one below 20% of full scale.