Home machining questions

wireman wrote:
[/quote] quarter of a million dollars in machines?they spent that much on jays personal bathroom! :S :whistle: :woohoo:[/quote]

Actually, in our new building that we are doing at Willow Spring Raceway

www.aperaceparts.com/move.html

The bathroom in my office has a shower that is bigger than anything I have ever had in a house. My office with it's bathroom is all my wife's doing. She designed it as the office she thinks I deserve after 32 years of doing this stuff.

Steel, as for working for APE, keep an eye on our home page for a forthcoming "employment opportunities" link. You just never know.

Jay

wow! if ya ever decide ya need a personal retired licensed plumbing-electrical contractor-coffee maker on the payroll let me know,will work for motorcycle parts!:woohoo: :woohoo:

what kind of mill are you using? does it have a power feed?
I would spring for the fine bore head I think criterion, maybe spelled wrong, has one of the best out on the market.

You mean like this one? At $261.78 I think I'll have to watch eBay

thats the one, I dont think I would do a ebay, I would be worried about getting a damaged unit, it dosent take much to screw up a fine boring head.
I think you could mount the head by placing some blocks under the valve cover surface and use two steel rods thru the cam bores bolted down to the table

www.lathemaster.com/BORINGHEADSETM3TSHANK.htm

that one isn't too bad.

more products at www.lathemaster.com

i've ordered a couple things from him, he's a really cool guy to work with.

--r

i had some pictures on the old board from when i milled my 400 head. all i did was place the valve cover surface on the table and used t nuts right by the spark plugs. i do not know if it will work with the four's though. you may want to check clearance issues before you mill, i managed to go to far in the name of compression and made scrape out of one of my 400 heads

pic is what i have in my room at school, many kz parts have been strapped to that in the past few years

steell wrote:

You mean like this one? At $261.78 I think I'll have to watch eBay

That one is way too small. You would need , at least, the #DBL-204E which takes a 1" boring bar. It sells for $434.00 and the shank is another $50.00.

Jay

I just finished milling the head, I used four step blocks and four clamps to clamp over the cam valley on a 750 twin head. I had planned on taking .030" off, but I was taking .005 cuts and it took me nine tries to get it right, so I ended up taking .045 off

Looks like I could take off another .015 or so, but I'll try this head first and see how it works.

I have at least 3 or 4 more spare heads, so I can afford to ruin a couple, and probably will since I have never used any kind of mill before :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

steell wrote:

I ended up taking .045 off

how much of a compression bump should that make?

77KZ650 wrote:

steell wrote:

I ended up taking .045 off

how much of a compression bump should that make?

I don't know, but between removing the .045 and the .040 overbore it may be more than the starter will handle. I'm guessing ~10:1 but I might cc it to find out (but then again I might just stick it together and see what happens)
Stock is 8.5:1

Why dont you just make a tooling plate. 1/2" would probly work but I would suggest 1" thick aluminum. Using you cam cap bolt holes, bolt the plate to the head, then just bolt to mill table. If your using an older and possibly worn mill, watch out, you may think that babys flat but it WILL HAVE A CROWN IN IT from end to end. I know this is true, not from machining heads on mills but from twisting handles for over 22 yrs. As for the boring head cost and quality, I have seen some of the nicest stuff create junk and junk create some nice stuff. A machine is only as good as its operator. Setup is one of the most important parts of a good maching job. Be creative and just about anything can be done. Iv'e seen parts held down crazy glue for light machining and chains with turnbuckles for some awkward big parts.