Pow Pow Pow... is what it sounds like.

mwriders wrote: You know, when they bite you it's good since it's a sign of life. Soon (with any luck) you'll be able to burn yourself, too. Always a joyous moment.

Oh she's burnt me plenty of times before. Burned, shocked, gassed, and tossed to the deck. She's fickle. Tough love methinks. Then again I did have to take a dent out of the tank (roughly matched my fist...) and I did crack the magneto cover (rubber mallet is not the suggested way of removing cover when there is still a screw in...) So I think we're even.

I'll make sure to but some sealant around the boots again too just to make sure. Don't what that same issue I had before where she would only run well if I was holding the choke up.

YATTA! She fired up! I secured the airbox put in the OEM filter. Didn't do much, so I tried re-adjusting the point gap and plate. POP VROOOOM! Now to tool around and get everything smooth.

Robwolf wrote:

mwriders wrote: You know, when they bite you it's good since it's a sign of life. Soon (with any luck) you'll be able to burn yourself, too. Always a joyous moment.

Oh she's burnt me plenty of times before. Burned, shocked, gassed, and tossed to the deck. She's fickle. Tough love methinks. Then again I did have to take a dent out of the tank (roughly matched my fist...) and I did crack the magneto cover (rubber mallet is not the suggested way of removing cover when there is still a screw in...) So I think we're even.

Must be love.

mwriders wrote: Must be love.

Love might be the only reason I haven't sold it to someone else. That or stubbornness. Or that it's the closest thing I have to a working vehicle.

Took her around the block for a shakedown... Problem not solved. The offset compression between cylinders had broken something down in the crank case for sure. I still have that rattle in the bottom left and the engine feels weak under power like a slipping clutch (don't ask I've got the clutch adjusted). When it warms up she stalls out and the electric start struggles to turn the engine as if the battery was low. Something has got to be swelling and seizing up in the bottom. Bearing? I've asked before. What kind of trouble do I need to go through to replace a rod bearing? Too chicken to split the crank... should I just get it over with?

Robwolf wrote:

mwriders wrote: Must be love.

Love might be the only reason I haven't sold it to someone else. That or stubbornness. Or that it's the closest thing I have to a working vehicle.

I know the routine. Stubbornness and poverty explain why I keep at this. My only other working vehicle is a one-speed Marin commuter. Good luck with your problems and keep posting.

Robwolf wrote: ... should I just get it over with?

No time like the present.

Could have missed this in the thread, but have the valve clearances been checked and assured to be within factory specs?

Too tight intake valve may allow a good compression reading, then produce loss of compression at normal operating temperature.

And a too tight intake valve may also allow back-fire through the carb.

Good Fortune!

Factory clearance is between .17 and .22mm which is where I'm at. My smallest gauge is .203mm. This is what I'm set to.

Guess I'll bounce this back to the Odd Rattle thread since its appropriate again...

I know this is probally not the problem but i was told if you get "bit" by a spark plug wire while holding the coating the wires should be replaced. Not sure if its true, but could help.