TOPIC:

yes sir;)

The stock and APE studs are essentially long 10mm bolts (or are they 12mm?). They just thread into the case. If you have stud removers, these things fit over the end at the top on the thread and the old studs generally come right out. If they don't, as mentioned, there is corrosion. The corrosion starts, generally, because someone installed the cylinder head nuts without using washers or failed to put some silicon sealer around the studs (per the Kaw factory shop manual). Since you can use a breaker bar with the stud removers, it isn't all that difficult to muscle them out if they are sticky BUT if they are really corroded, squirt some PB Blaster on the stuck parts or Kroil and then let it sit for awhile and then heat, as has been mentioned. The problem most folks run into is that they use vise grips to try and remove the old studs and end up making a mess.

To install the new studs, you should probably use stud installers and torque the studs but if worse comes to worse and you can find stud installers, use a tap to clean the thread... don't go too deep... and I think it is 10mm x 1.25 but since this is memory, could be wrong. Then put some red Loctite on the thread and turn it in snug with vise grips. I suspect if you had a stud installer, you could follow the general 10mm torque spec at the front of most of the shop manuals (for 10mm bolts). It will be about 20 ft/lbs. or so.

I just took mine out today... used PB and a stud puller attached to a breaker bar.... No issues... they came out easy....

Warming things up helps... my garage was about 36° this afternoon.

good place to pick up a stud puller??and a guy from z1ent. told me to use heat and vice grips...and the same site also states dipping new stud threads in clean oil before installing...nothing about thread locker..

brianrae33 wrote:

good place to pick up a stud puller??and a guy from z1ent. told me to use heat and vice grips...and the same site also states dipping new stud threads in clean oil before installing...nothing about thread locker..

id say put a dab of anti seize on em before running them in;)

Read all the replies. seems we all want to help and have our own way of doing so. bottom line is IF they are stuck? You need to get them out. Can't go 1/2 way then turn back. Corrision is a bad thing!!! I have seen just about everything thats has been assembled with 2 DISsimular metals corrode. I think its just a chemical reaction of sorts. Watch the heat!! Aluminum starts to distort at about 800 degrees. 1100 degress and it melts. Warpage can take place anywhere from 800 and above! Like my dad always said, a lazy man only does things once! Meaning do it RIGHT the 1st time. Get yourself a GOOD hardened stud/bolt extractor 1st. Snap On sells a good one that I have been useing for years without any issues. Then have a PROPANE torch handy. NOT MAP gas. Slide the tool all the down the stud as close to the case as you can get it. Have about a 24" breaker bar on it and BEFORE you use heat use muscle!After you get them all out, take a tap and clean the threads out. Thats very IMPORTANT! Dirty threads will give you wrong torque reading you can bet on that! BE patient! Get all the corrosion and debris removed, blow the holes out with air, then I always use any sort of automotive Brake cleaner. It removes all grease and oil and evaporates!
Every torque spec I have ever seen for ANYTHING always says to use a thin coating on oil. I have always done this no matter what I have ever worked on, and NEVER had a nut/bolt come loose. NEVER! A torque reading is an exact measurement that stretches the item to manufactures specifications. Go higher and you over stretch the bolt causeing it to loose strength and it will eventually either strip when things get hot [remember metal stretches when hot]or the bolt will try to remain longer because of the heat causeing the nut to become loose, not enough torque and of course its too loose. Another little tip! A bolt is only as strong as the width of the nut. Not strength at all just because you have 1" or so bolt sticking out threw the nut! If the nut is too thin? It isn't going to be strong enough. Ever wonder why "NUTS" are different thickness's compaired to larger/smaller diameters? In a PERFECT world if a bolt just comes out to the very edge of the nut. Thats all it needs, anything else is a waste. Been working in a performance machine shop for over 25 yrs. I have seen and fixxed it all ! Good Luck to you, just remember common sense and patients!

greatly appreciate all the valuable advice...love this site!!patience i have..stud puller i don't...will be looking into getting one along with all the other crap i need...love working on the engine...hate buying all the stuff i need..something new everytime...but that's why we do it right???long live the kz grand!!

www.aperaceparts.com/tools.html

The thread in the case is 10 mm X 1.50

Jay

The stud remover set I bought from eBay awhile back essentially grabs into the thread and messes it up some. Jay, does the APE tool damage the thread any? I have had to run a die over each stud after removal in the past. The installer tool to the right is a real good idea as it allows a torque wrench to be used.

Jay, I guess I am going to give you a chance to tout your tools... how does the positive stop TDC tool work? I have used a pencil in the past... is this gizmo most helpful for degreeing in cams? I virtually never degree cams so the pencil seems to work but if I were to degree cams, I guess a tool that was absolute would be the answer. Again, please explain the tool.

Also, there are some aluminum sleeves for valve grinding. What does the term "base circle" refer to? Looks like (based on p/n) one sleeve is for a 903cc valve and the other a 1015cc valve?

The remover does grab the stud down low by the case and it leaves marks on them. That is not a problem as one usually throws the stockers away after removing them.

Our valve height gages are used to set the stem height to be near the middle of the shim range after a valve job.

The base circle refers to the diameter of the round part of the cam lobe.

Standard Z1, KZ1000, J model and GPZ is 1.110" So if you are working on a head with stock cams or one with a stock base circle, that is the gage you would use. Most cams in the 440 to 500" lift range use a 1.00" base circle. This is done to keep the tip of the lobe closer to the cam centerline so it will not run off the bucket. With the difference between the two being .110", a head set up for 1.00" base circle cams would have to have the valve stems set .055" higher in the head to still be in the shim range.

This is why we make the gages in all popular base circle sizes.

If you check our cam page; kzzone.com/cams.html you will see that we show the base circle sizes if they are not stock.

Jay

Thanks Jay... didn't realize you folks offered these tools. There are definitely some that I can use.

wiredgeorge wrote:

Thanks Jay... didn't realize you folks offered these tools. There are definitely some that I can use.

Originally we only made them for ourselves. Then other cylinder head shops that we supply found out that we had them and they wanted some. We are not really set up for short run production, so we just made a bunch of them and put them on our site.

Jay