TOPIC:

plan on installing heavy duty ape studs....any advice on getting the old ones out?

pipe wrench and a propane torch;) or stud extractor

sooo...they are pretty difficult to remove i gather..

they can be tough sometimes,more of a luck of the draw thing.the 24" pipe wrench and a little heat usually works in most situations ive come across though;)

Add 1 can of PB Blaster to Wireman's formula... Great stuff to have around the shop anyway.

I gave up and let Raceworks take em out for me. Mine were in real bloody solid. Good luck.

jsut curious if i will really need to replace the stock ones...putting a 1075 kit in...ape valve springs...i know these engines are over built so thinking i should be safe....only had it apart twice before..

If they are stuck then that means that corrosion has already been working on them, and they are already weaker than they should be. How much weaker there is no way of telling, how lucky are you?

I'm a firm believer in biting the bullet and fixing it right, it seems that otherwise it always comes back and bites me later..

brianrae33 wrote:

jsut curious if i will really need to replace the stock ones...putting a 1075 kit in...ape valve springs...i know these engines are over built so thinking i should be safe....only had it apart twice before..

my kz900 had a 1075 kit put into it with stock studs and it is still here running great. that has been my experience anyway...for what its worth.

well...haven't tried to remove them yet...but my engine will be remaining in the frame for this rebuild...so just trying to save as much headache as possible..

I put together a 1015cc, tightened the studs till the squish was gone. This was without a torque wrench and pretty tight. No problems all summer beating the bike with amazing fervor. Then: oil starting leaking all over, the cylinder seal was hissing etc. I checked and found every nut was loose on the head. Surprised me they never fell off. I tightened them back up and the leaking stopped completely. Havn't checked them in alot of beating on the motor but I tightened the rotor bolt and it wouldn't get tight. Turns out it's stretched like an accordian. Never seen that before, but i seen the hardware store and bought a bolt. Second time putting on the rotor, the damn oil leak in the cover ya know, it snapped. Then i see theres these little numbers on the bolt. I got one that did'nt stretch, or snap and you could feel when it was tight. So the torque wrench is 0 me 115. If you dont over torque the head studs they will not stretch, but will compression stay in? When I torque a head a take a long time. And always torque the middle ahead of the ends. That damn toyota diesel should have been done that way but nnoo i had to listen to the book. Failure! Common sense rules. Brain cells must never die. A misprint is burning as kindling in the back yard. The kawi sets in the shed leaking oil. NEVER!!

i'm assuming my stock cylinder studs are threaded into the case??