TOPIC:

I have a head gasket and a base gasket leak which I intend to fix over the winter. I got a compression tester for xmas and decided to test the old girl out. I did it cold:( not sure if the engine should have been at operating temprature or not. All of the cylinders read between 80-90lbs which my clymer manuals say is low it only says an engine can start with compression as low as 100:S So now I am semi freaking but also if I am going to have the engine aprt now would be the time for say the rings. I put oil in the plug holes in cylinder 1 & 4 and the compression went to 100 -110 respectivly.

The bike is cranky to start it usually takes about 10-15 cranks if it is not a warm day but it doesn't seem to lack power it can do 100kmh and still have room to go.

So I am unsure about the test. Another question I have when I go on the highway and start to slow down I hear a high piched almost a bearing squeal I can rev the engine with the clutch in and it will go away I know it's hard to imagine a sound but any ideas??

One last question my oil window is milky the oil add cover/screw has a beige looking almost whipped cream junk on it but when I drain the oil it is black or just like reular oil:dry: everyone says moisture i drive it every day and it always looks the same do you think because the head gasket is leaking that water/moisture could get in through there??

Did you check the compression with the carb throttles wide open?

Have you checked the valve clearance on all valves?

How far do you ride everyday (timewise)?

The oil has to get to ~212F to boil out the condensation.

To get accurate readings the engine should really be warmed up so the parts can expand. The piston will be snugger in the cylinder when it is at operating temp, and as steel says you want to hold throttle wide open during cranking Water in your crankcase? Only way that could happen is if you ride in the rain with your oil filler cap off or ride short distances without warming up...

Post edited by: Bluemeanie, at: 2006/12/26 22:14

No I didn't check with the throttle wide open what difference would that make:ohmy: I drive 5kms in heavy traffic

Thanks nope don't ride with the filler cap off but I did start it up once with it off yep cost me a pair of dungarees:laugh:

How far do you ride the bike. It needs to get up to temperature in order to urn off the water that gets in the oil from condensation. A 20 min ride should be enough. You might also be getting some fuel into the oil from a leaking carb.

2bskor wrote:

No I didn't check with the throttle wide open what difference would that make:ohmy:

Very significant difference. You should do it again. All plugs out, choke off, throttle wide open.

You might gain 15 to 30 psi.

The white stuff is water mixed with oil. The water is from water-vapor which is a by-product of combustion. It gets into the crankcase through "blow-by" past the rings. The white stuff is normal if you take short rides on cold days. It should go away after a long ride on a warm day.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/12/27 01:59

Thanks loudhvx, forgot to meantion that ALL plugs should be removed. With no plugs, throttle held open while cranking and at operating temp you will get a more consistant crank and more reliable readings. As stated above, you readings WILL rise and be more realistic this way. Let us know