Also, new question-- why wouldn't the tail light be running? From what I've seen, that just runs straight from the ignition switch to the light to ground. The brake light works, so surely it's not the bulb (unless that's just how dual filaments work) and it's not the ground because the stop lamp is still fine. I double checked and the wire is connected and running all the way to where it needs to be. Should I check that connection on the ignition switch itself? 

martin_csr wrote:

The key code may be stamped into the seat lock as well. I don't know which would be easier to get at to see the code. 
Also in case you aren't aware, the 1000P police bikes have have a replaceable key lock cylinder for the fuel tank. 

1994 KZ1000-P13 Ignition switch & locks >>www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...tch-locks-reflectors

1994 KZ1000-P13 fuel tank >> www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...kz1000-p13/fuel-tank

On the lock set from my "K" that I sent to Carlos it was only clearly visible on the ignition lock, the seat lock had a shorter number (4 not 5 digits)

AdAstra029 wrote:

Okay so I finally got some time and disconnected both the brown/white + red/blue fuses and the blue/white + blue fuses and tested them. No issues on red/blue (0.01v- 0.07v), but on solid blue I get 12v. But from the wiring diagram I think that's running to the headlight, which I haven't removed, but it persisted even after I disconnected the terminals so I'm not sure that that means. The blue wire will see ground through the headlight bulb - if with the headlight bulb disconnected the blue still gives a 12v reading then there is a short somewhere between the fuse, the headlight dip switch and the headlight itself

Also-- any idea what this random brown terminal might go to? It isn't the extra brown white and I can't find it on the diagram. If you look on the diagram below and left from the brake light failure unit there is a brown wire with a double connector that doesn't go anywhere
 

The key code may be stamped into the seat lock as well. I don't know which would be easier to get at to see the code. 
Also in case you aren't aware, the 1000P police bikes have have a replaceable key lock cylinder for the fuel tank. 

1994 KZ1000-P13 Ignition switch & locks >>www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...tch-locks-reflectors

1994 KZ1000-P13 fuel tank >> www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...kz1000-p13/fuel-tank

The compression of 7 bar is a way to low, check the valve clearence!


 
 
 
 
 

TexasKZ wrote:

Wow, what a mess. I would clean it all up and assess, but I bet the rotor is too far gone to save. 
The rotor spins at exactly the same speed as the crankshaft. As rpm rises, the springs allow the weights to move outward, slightly advancing the point at which the plugs fire. As rpm goes down, the springs pull the weights back, thus retarding the spark a bit. 
Be very careful with that 13 mm bolt in the center. If you break it, you will be very sad. Lots of good penetrating oil and patience will pay off. Kano Kroil and Liquid Wrench are among the best penetrants. WD40 and such, are a waste of time here.

Well that would explain the lack of power of the timing is too slow at high rpm. 
I sprayed the whole thing with deep creep on Friday and will check it again tomorrow. I don't even want to touch that 13mm lol

Okay so I finally got some time and disconnected both the brown/white + red/blue fuses and the blue/white + blue fuses and tested them. No issues on red/blue (0.01v- 0.07v), but on solid blue I get 12v. But from the wiring diagram I think that's running to the headlight, which I haven't removed, but it persisted even after I disconnected the terminals so I'm not sure that that means. 

Also-- any idea what this random brown terminal might go to? It isn't the extra brown white and I can't find it on the diagram.
 

Are all the details in the build thread ? I feel a BOTM feature as she moves on to pastures new

The ad on craigslist is at stockton.craigslist.org/mpo/d/lodi-1981-...1100/7748937883.html

And the build thread is here www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/614473...1100-refresh-upgrade

 

Wow, what a mess. I would clean it all up and assess, but I bet the rotor is too far gone to save. 
The rotor spins at exactly the same speed as the crankshaft. As rpm rises, the springs allow the weights to move outward, slightly advancing the point at which the plugs fire. As rpm goes down, the springs pull the weights back, thus retarding the spark a bit. 
Be very careful with that 13 mm bolt in the center. If you break it, you will be very sad. Lots of good penetrating oil and patience will pay off. Kano Kroil and Liquid Wrench are among the best penetrants. WD40 and such, are a waste of time here.