The ZX1100A1 (GPZ1100UT) don´t have any mass flow sensor!!!

AFAIK only the Z1000 H, Z1000 G (Classic) and Gpz1100 B1 use the mass flow sensor and analog EFI system.

 
 
 

Later models B2 and GPZ1100UT (ZX1100A1) use the DFI (digital) fuel injection (Alpha-N) system, with no mass flow sensor.

 

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

Warren3200gt wrote: fuel stabilizer lead replacment tablets .

Does that Sh** work???

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationfuel stabilizer lead replacment tablets .

Hey lads,

Im still pretty green here and still have a lot to learn about these beautiful old girls so by all means pull me up if I say something wrong
I have 2x 79 KZ1's. Ones turboed and the second is a half scratch built ST

The first one I acquired was the turbo which had been parked up for 10+ years in a chook shed and in very poor condition and been left in mine now for probably another 5 This was built back in the 80's and from what Ive heard was based on a drag setup but used on the road. Apparently it has Mtc forged rods and pistons and a welded crank? From the outside it has a big Rayjays turbo, Austin 1100 carb and water injection using god knows what vehicles fuel pump


The second one the guy had a pretty cool vision but ran out of time & money etc. So this is an ST (shafty) frame for the wider swingarm pivet point which has a 2010 R1 swingarm, 2010 Zx6r forks, Ducati Sport Classic spoked wheels and GPZ1100 body work and more. In the photo thats an 1100 engine but since gone)


And the MERGE


I really dont know which way to head with this thing and totally understand this will be a ground up rebuild but most the funs in the build and have plenty of time on my hands after my recent accident that might be the end of my road riding days ...... for now!
I love building one offs so I want to keep things pretty close to the original styling but stray a little if you get what I mean. Bigger brakes, tyres and suspension are a must (I love racefit builds)
Do I mod up the engine with later model gear ie turbo, carb, fitting etc or try keeping it period, water injection, copper fittings etc?
I know this will possibly get me shot but I kinda dig the gpz tank and tail

Let us have it, what are your guys thoughts?????
Im not 100% sold on the R1 swingarm so any suggestions (if anyone has a chunky spondon lying round hit me up )

I've dug into the EFI diagnostic manual and have completed 16 of the 23 checks. I have a fuel pressure gauge but I'm going to have to construct a way to cut it into the system. Unlike modern fuel systems that have a capped valve stem style connection there is nothing on the Kawi Classic. So I'll have to buy or build a T fitting that has the valve in it and cut it into the system so I can check fuel pressure.
I've got a few system checks that are marginal when tested. Example, one circuit in the airflow meter is looking for 350 to 400 ohms at rest and <2K ohms at full sweep. At rest it sits at 321 ohms, in spec throughout the full sweep. I seriously doubt this is the cause of any failure. Other cicruits are to be 0 ohms and I find 3 ohms or up to 15 ohms. Same with the Throttle Position Sensor. Very close to spec. But multiple elements at or just past the margin of spec. I start work full time tomorrow so the pace of progress will slow. Since I'm slow with this stuff when I'm not working, glacial may be the new pace.

I've got to do a full check on the fuel relay. It has about 9 connections (Test #23 in the manual) but I had proper voltage at the fuel pump two days ago during a check and yesterday I had none. It may be flaking out but again, hard to test with a single set of hands. Onward through the fog.

I've got compression, air, spark, fuel pump working and pressurized, but dry cylinders. I've got nowhere to go but guess unless I buy the Fuel Injection Troubleshooting Supplement. So I bought p/n 99963-0031-01 on eBay. Another $28 shipped. It will allow me to diagnose and adjust the throttle position sensor and the ECU versus the injectors. I've got a Power Probe II so I can safely read to see if I get a pulse on the injectors if I can find a place to read the signal. I don't know if I can do that accurately or safely with the injector connector unplugged. More reading in the near future.

Two weeks in Mexico and a week of elder care when I returned, finally back in the garage today. I removed the frozen check ball from the fuel pump output. Tested it on the bench and quickly drained a liter of fuel out of the auxiliary fuel tank and pumped it back into the gas can. I hooked everything back up on the bike, reinstalled the pump, battery, air flapper. Turned on the key and actuated the air flapper, viola! The fuel pump works. So I installed the airbox and tried to start it. Fuel circulated, everything spins nice and fast, but it didn't start. Ran out of time but I'll check for spark next and the voltage on the coils. At least there is progress.

May be the right way to go Dave. Scrapping with the stocker at the moment. Got the fuel pump running but the output port is clogged. Thanks for the tips on getting that going again. There is some sort of rubber check valve that has hardened in the output barb. I may remove it completely as there is a legit metal spring and check ball / checkvalve on the tank return right above it. I may remove the offending rubber piece all together.
I cleaned the contacts on the airbag flapper contacts and verified they are touching the base board. Resealed the cover with waterproof RTV and let it dry on the bench for when I return.

les holt wrote: Clean the contactors on the flapper.

Les

Will do Les, thanks for the tip. But I still have to get the fuel pump up and running. Directly applying power and ground and it isn't spinning.

I understand your point Scirroco, but that doesn't appear to be the case with this early, less sophisticated system. Per the manual and the table below: 1) Ignition switch + starter motor = fuel pump power on or 2) Ignition + fuel pump contacts = fuel pump power on. The "fuel pump contacts" are in the air flapper mechanism. Which is why I believe the service manual says to purge air in the system prior to start up, you turn on the ignition and move the air flapper valve manually to open.