TOPIC:

Looking for different methods for cleaning and polishing aluminum parts such as cylinder blocks, cylinder heads and lower fork tubes.

I used paper towels, rags, popsicle sticks, the 2 polishes shown in the first 2 images below, and elbow grease to polish my engine (see last 2 images). Ed

Ed, that looks great! I will have to try that on other bikes that are not disassembled at the moment...

Here is my most current method, depending on how bad your metal is to begin with -

1) Wet sand with super fine sandpaper with something like Boeshield T9
2) Buff with Emery compound
3) Buff with Tripoli compound
4) Buff with Jewelers Rouge
5) Buff or cloth rub something like Mother's aluminum polish.

As far as things like the engine block itself, I just use some steel wool and an aluminum/steel cleaner in a spray can that I got at the dollar store.

The above method is for polishing aluminum engine covers, also can be for fork tubes, etc. Be sure to rub with mineral spirits between steps to get rid of excess compound. Steps can be skipped or added. I am not a pro and things like valve covers are really hard to do, even with a dremel. Over time I have learned how to polish and clean my stuff to a degree that I am happy with, but not a $600 polishing job or an eternity in the garage.

Good luck! Attached are some things I did last week. Doing a lite resto on my 900 with some modifications.

Ed, that looks great! I will have to try that on other bikes that are not disassembled at the moment...

Here is my most current method, depending on how bad your metal is to begin with -

1) Wet sand with super fine sandpaper with something like Boeshield T9
2) Buff with Emery compound
3) Buff with Tripoli compound
4) Buff with Jewelers Rouge
5) Buff or cloth rub something like Mother's aluminum polish.

As far as things like the engine block itself, I just use some steel wool and an aluminum/steel cleaner in a spray can that I got at the dollar store.

The above method is for polishing aluminum engine covers, also can be for fork tubes, etc. Be sure to rub with mineral spirits between steps to get rid of excess compound. Steps can be skipped or added. I am not a pro and things like valve covers are really hard to do, even with a dremel. Over time I have learned how to polish and clean my stuff to a degree that I am happy with, but not a $600 polishing job or an eternity in the garage.

Good luck! Attached are some things I did last week. Doing a lite resto on my 900 with some modifications.

If you use a spray cleaner be sure NOT to use oven cleaner. It can permanently stain your engine cases. Be sure to check container warnings for safe use on aluminum. Ed

Thanks for the tip Ed. I'll try to find those 2 polishing compounds and give them a try. My '76 LTD900 isn't bad at all like she is and actually is very near showroom condition. I bought 'er new from the dealer when I was about to graduate High School back in '76. But even new engines can look even better with a bit of work. And parts like my lower fork tubes cld use a bit of extra shine. I have 2 others that I'm restoring. I'm always lookin for ways to make my priceless treasures even better. Nice lookin' 650 Custom BTW. I had a silver one a bit modified with a Kerker and K&N's...wow what a rocket for it's size. Wish I still had it too. But I wldn't trade my '76 900LTD's for anything on earth. Thanks for the reply. maybe we cld chat and swap stories sometime...........Mike

I wld never use a spray cleaner like that anyway but thx for the note.

Rockranch wrote:

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I wld never use a spray cleaner like that anyway but thx for the note.

Very nice bike! Your fork lowers have a clear coat on them, thats why they are a bit yellow. i would strip the paint off them before polishing. makes 0it a bit easier than sanding through the paint.

This is from a different thread, i have found it works REALLY well for getting in between the fins.

bluej58 wrote: I used a small hemostat with cut up squares of Scotchbrite and cotton tee shirt for the stripping, scrubbing ,cleaning and polishing this last time and was very happy with the way it worked for me.

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That's a cool handy tool too. I found that the buffing head for the cleaning rod of a 410 shotgun works awesome and the perfect size in a drill chuck for buffing between engine fins, and the drill does most o' the work. A guy can never have too many tools in his arsenal lol. Whatever method you use takes time and effort but so awesome when done. KEEPING them that way is quite easy with regular care and a feather duster, air hose and a dab of polish here n there. A pic of my motor about a year and a half ago.