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Blowing main 20 A fuse.... Why? 19 Mar 2017 07:11 #757108

  • CPLSeraphim
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I replaced my ignition coil, and accidentally wired it backwards (the way it said it was supposed to be wired) and kept blowing my main. Could always check that if you messed with it at all. Blew as soon as I turned the key.
I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.
~Robert Frost

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Blowing main 20 A fuse.... Why? 19 Mar 2017 08:27 #757120

  • loudhvx
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The ignition coils on the Kz's don't really have a polarity. They can be wired either way. Neither of the primary terminals are grounded. If switching the wires on a coil causes the fuse to blow, there must have been another issue involved. Some aftermarket coils put the terminal post very close to the frame and this sometimes causes shorting.

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Blowing main 20 A fuse.... Why? 19 Mar 2017 12:04 #757141

  • newjack213
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Inspected and cleaned my connections and while doing this I noticed very obvious signs (I can't believe I hadn't noticed before) that the previous lead/acid battery had boiled over at some time in the recent past. I'm planning on ordering a new regulator on Friday from electrosport.com. Does anyone have any experience with these regulators? Are they any good? Is there anywhere else I should look?

Thanks again.

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Blowing main 20 A fuse.... Why? 19 Mar 2017 22:07 #757187

  • missionkz
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Did I read that you used your DVMM and found zero reading in any direction?

If you didn't already kill the battery with no water and totally shorted cells....
This is tricky to say but it rather implies to me you were using ithe DVMM as an Ohm meter. If yes, and the battery junk, then that probably means you have now wiped out the rectifier and probably the voltage regulator and or still do have a dead short out of the dyno windings ...probably through your regulator and zener.
Some bikes have their rectifier block built into the voltage regulator so I can't comment much further.
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado

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Blowing main 20 A fuse.... Why? 20 Mar 2017 05:35 #757197

  • martin_csr
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Voltage regulator. From the diagrams at Partzilla their cross-reference shows that the 1000E Shaft has the same reg-rec as my 81 650-csr. If so, then you can use one from a late model Ninja 500 or Vulcan 500 et all (credit to loudhvx). I installed one from a low mileage 2007 ex500. The connector was reversed, so I had to install new terminal pins & connector (my old stock connector crumbled). To do proper crimps, you'd need a good ratcheting crimper w correct crimper dies to install new terminal pins.
The electrosport unit would be easier as it's a direct plug n play.

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Blowing main 20 A fuse.... Why? 20 Mar 2017 06:07 #757201

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newjack213 wrote: .... I'm planning on ordering a new regulator on Friday from electrosport.com. Does anyone have any experience with these regulators? Are they any good? Is there anywhere else I should look?

Thanks again.


Check out the folks at the link below. There stuff works great! Ed

www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/Products.html
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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Blowing main 20 A fuse.... Why? 20 Mar 2017 08:45 #757216

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Until you compare the voltage on the brown wire to the voltage on the battery's positive post, you don't really know that you need a regulator.

You can do it directly. Put the read meter lead on the battery's positive post, and put the black meter lead on the brown wire just before it enters the regulator. If there is more than about a volt, you are losing voltage somewhere. This makes the regulator compensate by increasing the battery voltage.

You should also compare your ground side the same way. Between the battery's negative post and the reg/rec's black wire, there should not be more than .5 volt difference, and should really be closer to 0.
The following user(s) said Thank You: newjack213

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