TOPIC:

I hace a newish (about a year old) rotor, just bought brand new stator, and reg/rec. I'm getting 48-50vts off the stator at 4000rpm off yellows at the male side of the stator 6 prong clip. I'm getting 48-50vts off yellows at the male side of 6 prong clip going into reg/rec at 4000rpm. I'm getting only 10vts at battery at 4000rpm. I have continuity between the reg/rec and positive lead at battery (battery disconnected of course) and continuity between reg/rec and the neg lead at battery. What the hell am I missing?!? Any and all help/advise on the matter is GREATLY appreciated as I am at wits end.

Even if new, it sounds like a bad regulator anyhow.
Have a spare or can someone lend you one to eliminate that?

The following may help you...

1) disconnect the stator wires from the harness and set your multimeter to AC voltage. Start the bike and rev the engine to 5000 rpm while probing between the three output legs of the stator. You should be getting about 75+ volts AC on each combination of legs. For example: from A to B, A to C, and B to C.

2) assuming the above checks out, wire the stator directly into the R/R. Bypass the factory harness. Connect the R/R ground to the - battery terminal and the + to the positive battery terminal. Next, start the bike and rev to 5000 rpm while putting your voltmeter across the two battery terminals (set meter to DC voltage of course). With any luck you should see about 14.5 volts.

If you get the voltage you need then consider adding a fuse in line with the power output from the R/R to the battery. The R/R ground can go straight to the battery without concern.

Thanks guys. I'll try to hard wire the r/r as suggested and see what happens.

A bit of a follow up, before I hardwire the thing, I isolated the white and red wire coming from the r/r at the junction where it spits off to the starter solinoid and the 30amp fuse and it's reading 150vts! So I'm guessin that the new r/r is just as bad as the old one. That's what I get for being cheap and getting the $25 r/r, time to spring for the $100 one.... any recommendations? Z1enterprises are out of stock.

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No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationIf money is a problem a good used R/R from a Kawasaki 1000/1000 will work for the time being.
Steve

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationSomething is off. There is no way the system can be putting out 150 volts.

Wire the R/R like suggested and see what you get. Bypass the factory wiring unless you can see the wires and where they go.

If you need a new R/R then get a SH775 Series type. You can find them used for about $50 shipped and they are robust and reliable so no worry about purchasing used.

+1 to what Ed said.
If you choose to go that route and install it correctly, you won't be disappointed with the results.
In addition to the Shindengen SH775, you will need a special connector with wires n-stuff. I bought a kit from Roadster Cycle (Jack Flemmiing) which has everything needed to hook it up.
See:
www.roadstercycle.com/

Here is how the electrical panel on my 82 1100A turned out.

Just to specify. I tested the white and red wire after the r/r on 20 DCV and it read OL. I then switched the multimeter to ACV and got a reading of 150. So that's telling me that the r/r is not converting the volts to DC or (if each yellow lead from the stator is producing 50) restricting any of it. I have a high end r/r coming this Friday, eleminating the possibility of a crappy r/r. If the problem persists at that time, I will hard wire it then and see if that clears it up.

I bought a cheap R/R to test my old one. It worked less than a week then almost ruined my system. I'm still using the old one. It works but I know it could do better.
Steve

Sinicle wrote: I have a high end r/r coming this Friday, eleminating the possibility of a crappy r/r. If the problem persists at that time, I will hard wire it then and see if that clears it up.

Hope you got a proper SERIES type R/R like Shindengen SH775 or a Compufire. Shunt type R/R's are inferior in comparison since they send all unused current back into the stator which can cause it to burn up.