TOPIC:

Switch the leads in and out of the coils and see if the fault moves with it. If there is sparking at that set of points, they are dirty or the condenser is bad. Do you want me to delete the duplicate post?
Steve

I wasn't sure how to delete the duplicate post, I'll get the hang of it soon hopefully. It didn't even dawn on me to swap the leads. Thank you for the help. I'm going to give that a try as soon as I get back to the house. I found a spare coil that the guy I bought the bike from left in a spare parts goody box he was nice enough to give me with the bike. The spark plug wire caps are a diferently size but looks good otherwise.

VegasRob wrote: The points spring is define try grounded. After taking a closer look it appears that one of the insulating washers is missing from one side although both springs read continuity to ground when the point is open.

That's why no spark. Hope you get it running.

VegasRob wrote: I wasn't sure how to delete the duplicate post, I'll get the hang of it soon hopefully. It didn't even dawn on me to swap the leads. Thank you for the help. I'm going to give that a try as soon as I get back to the house. I found a spare coil that the guy I bought the bike from left in a spare parts goody box

Are the coils original?

Some of us learned the hard way that old coils need to be dropped in the can. Source of perpetual misery......

If/when I replace the coils, any sugestions on a quality replacement.

The K&L catalogue lists a KZ/GS ignition coil for points ignition. #20-8450. 90 mm center-to-center stud mount.
Emgo also has coils for points w the same stud spacing. Z1Enterprises.com.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationWas looking at aftermarket coils but the reviews here made me rethink that. I was watching a few Dyna coil setups on eBay. I put in a bid knowing I would be out bid. Everyone was dog piling that one. There was a set I was watching no one seemed to be interested in. I set my highest bid 20 minutes before the end. GOT EM, $63. Bidding got tight there and I wasn't going to spend more that 1/2 of what's new. I got them for 1/3 with the whole package. The seller even discounted the shipping. Like new and that mysterious miss is gone.



Steve

Well I installed the spare coil that I had. But even after checking the resistance before I installed it, I'm getting constant ground at the signal terminal after it's mounted. Guess I'm in the market for some new ignition coils. The k&l coils look like the affordable option. I can't find any reviews on them or any resistance information and it's a bit odd how the spark plug wires are permanently attached. Has anyone had experience with these? I'm a cheep skate so these are very tempting. I don't think I'm the lucky type that can come up on a pair of dyna 3 ohm greens for $65. When replacing a bad coil is it a good idea or a necessity to replace as a pair if you're not using the same part?
On a side note, I found a nice little rubber grommet that makes for a better insulator than the cork I was using for my point grounding problem. Thank you, everyone that has taken the time to help me.

They should be replaced as a set. I'd check into the grounded issue a little further before buying anything. Contact K&L and see if they are made in Japan or CHINA.
Steve

With the wire disconnected; When I test at the wire from the point with the point open, I have no continuity to ground. When I test at the post on the coil where the wire connects to, I get continuity to ground. On the coil that is giving me spark, I only get continuity to ground if it's supplied by the closed point. It's leading me to believe that the coil is shorted internally. I'm getting correct grounding from my points when I test at the wires. The rubber grommet seems to be doing the trick for now but I would like to find the right replacement parts because I'm not sure how well the rubber will hold up over time.

Since you found some issues with the points, I suggest before buying coils you swap the good coil with the bad to see if the problem follows the bad coil. Otherwise you may find the new coil(s) still doesn't provide spark. Be sure to swap the spark plug leads and the black and green wires at the coils. Ed

Sounds like you do have a shorted coil. Unhook them and test between the inputs and outputs against the mounting bar in the center.
Steve