TOPIC:

Check the points are not grounded against the backing plate by the spring steel spring that keeps them following the cam. If that gets pushed against the backing plate you will have no spark. It happens quite often when people start fiddling around inside the points cover.

Make sure the points’ springs aren’t grounded. This can happen if the little insulators are not placed properly. An easy way to check is to turn the crank so that one set of point is open (use the big hex in the center of the points assembly – don’t use the small one on the very end to turn the crank). Then using a meter or light test for continuity between the flat spring for that set of points and the engine case. There should not be continuity between the two. If there is, the spring is grounded and that set of points won’t work until the condition is corrected. Check both points springs this way.

There definitely has been a switheroo on your bike of the ignition system or engine. That points assembly is the old type with individually adjustable points pairs like that which came on my 1977 KZ650. Later KZ650 points assemblies had points pairs mounted in fixed positions on the plate. Please take a look at the engine number on your engine. It will be on top near the oil filler cap. Does it by any chance start with “KZ650”? Ed

The old style points plate is better IMO. You can set them regardless of what the other set is doing. One thing though, The advancer my not be compatible with them.
Steve

Engine plate says kz750ee

Here is a pic of the road that I started to go down. I wanted to eliminate the condensers and ci box as question marks and work with some parts that I knew were good. I got a little ahead of myself. Per the sugestions, I re-cleaned the points, removed the points cover and checked the springs and insulated tips, I also just re-soldered the green wire back to it's condenser cause it was hanging by a thread. I'm restoring the original set up now so I can do a proper test of the circuit.

The points spring is define try grounded. After taking a closer look it appears that one of the insulating washers is missing from one side although both springs read continuity to ground when the point is open.

Here's how the insulators should be. Ed

Used some cork to make a temporary insulated washer until I can find one. Points grounding problem solved. Time to install OE parts and test.

Nice! I was wondering how that went. Good pic.

Make sure you have a small round insulator where shown in reply above or the little bolts will ground on the metal adjuster. Ed

Spark restored to number 1 and 4 cylinders. I probably have a faulty coil on the other side. I'm still going to need to find some insulators to fix the points correctly but it's working now for further testing. I'm not hitting the road any time soon. Beyond the spark issue, I still need to tackle some carb jetting and tuning plus a variety of cosmetic and lighting stuff.
Now that I have spark out of two cylinders I can probably ditch this gm hei stuff for the time being. How do I determine if my problem is in the coil vs the condenser?

Spark restored to number 1 and 4 cylinders. I probably have a faulty coil on the other side. I'm still going to need to find some insulators to fix the points correctly but it's working now for further testing. I'm not hitting the road any time soon. Beyond the spark issue, I still need to tackle some carb jetting and tuning plus a variety of cosmetic and lighting stuff.
Now that I have spark out of two cylinders I can probably ditch this gm hei stuff for the time being. How do I determine if my problem is in the coil vs the condenser?