Welcome, Guest
Username: Password: Remember me
  • Page:
  • 1
  • 2

TOPIC:

1981 kz750 ltd without spark/igniter shot? 06 Oct 2014 13:42 #649849

  • CharlieLamberti
  • CharlieLamberti's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 15
  • Thank you received: 0
Thanks for stopping in. Was riding home last night and the bike died, Got it home today and discovered that the spark is gone across the board. I'm suspicious of the igniter, but seeing how rare and expensive a new one is I'd like to really make double sure it's busted. The voltage and resistance are all over the map and don't match this FSM, kz.bike-night.com/media/GPz750-full.pdf . With the ignition on there are 12 volts at both wires on both coils, resistance is in line with the FSM, Ran fine for the first 350 miles of my motorcycle career then just shut down with no signs of starting. All of the other electrics work, and the battery is new. I've seen the posts out there outlining building one out of gm hei modules, good thinking but a last resort. I know grabbing one used off ebay is a gamble, though I may go that route, Anyone know if there are other models of igniter that will work? The one on it is a Fugi 21119-1020, I have no trouble with swapping connectors or lengthening wires. I searched the heck out of this topic before posting. Thanks in advance for any helpful advice you can offer,
Keep on keepin' on.

1981 kz750ltd

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Last edit: by CharlieLamberti. Reason: clarity

1981 kz750 ltd without spark/igniter shot? 06 Oct 2014 15:33 #649866

  • MFolks
  • MFolks's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 6650
  • Thank you received: 540
Help With Igniter

Loudhvx wrote:
I still have the rough HEI prototype in my bike. It's working fine after a few thousand miles. Actually it seems better than the stock ignitor. The HEI modules have a better input filter and better output characteristics. The stock ignitor sometimes gets false triggers that cause an occasional missfire at idle, nothing major, you'd probably never notice it until you directly compare it with one that doesn't misfire.

Your next step is to swap the pickup wires to determine if the loss is in the ignitor or the pickups. It's very important to swap the right wires here. Swap yellow with black. And swap red with blue. (Use jumpers so you don't lose the orientation of the connector. In other words don't actually take the wires out of the connectors.) See if this changes where the spark is. If the spark moves to the other coil, then it is the pickup (or it's wiring) that is bad. If the spark stays on the same coil, then it's the ignitor.

The black and blue pickup wires are for one pickup, and red and yellow are for another. Just ohm out the pairs. They should be around 450 ohms. Wiggle the wires and the pickups to see if you ever lose continuity on the pickups. (Obviously the pickup connector needs to be disconnected from the ignitor.)

In your case, it will be the red and yellow wire that are suspect (if it's not the ignitor). They control #2 and #3 cylinders. If you lose continuity determine if its a wire or the pickup itself. Check any point where the wiring is bent. Look for bumps in the insulation and wiggle them while the ohm meter is connected. If the ohm meter moves, pull on the wire to see if you can stretch the bump. This indicates the wire may be broken inside the insulation. When the wire breaks internally and the insulation is in tact, it creates a small bump in the wire. If the wires look fine, with no bumps, and no losses in continuity, it's most likely the pickup itself. To be sure you need to get two really small, sharp pins. Sewing needles are too think. The pins that come on new dress shirts work good. Insert them into the wire insulation right where the wires go into the pickups. One for red, and one for yellow. Then connect the ohm meter to the pins. If you have no continuity, the pickup is bad. Luckily pickups are cheap.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1981 kz750 ltd without spark/igniter shot? 06 Oct 2014 15:56 #649871

  • Nessism
  • Nessism's Avatar
  • Away
  • Sustaining Member
  • Posts: 7286
  • Thank you received: 2677
There are dozens of cheap ignitors on ebay. Message the seller and make sure they will guarantee the thing before purchase is all. While searching make sure to also search "KZ750 CDI" in addition to "KZ750 ignitor". Lots of boneheads think the ignitor is a CDI for some reason.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1981 kz750 ltd without spark/igniter shot? 06 Oct 2014 16:10 #649874

  • CharlieLamberti
  • CharlieLamberti's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 15
  • Thank you received: 0
Thanks again for the input. I tested the pickup resistance and it's at about 430 on both , is within the spec in the service manual. Bench testing the igniter yields all kinds of crazy high resistances, and the voltages are out a bit too. So at this point I'm pretty well convinced this little box of tricks is my culprit. I'm wondering if just the 21119-1020 is the only igniter that will work, or if there are other compatible model numbers as well.
Keep on keepin' on.

1981 kz750ltd

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1981 kz750 ltd without spark/igniter shot? 06 Oct 2014 17:21 #649881

  • Nessism
  • Nessism's Avatar
  • Away
  • Sustaining Member
  • Posts: 7286
  • Thank you received: 2677

CharlieLamberti wrote: Thanks again for the input. I tested the pickup resistance and it's at about 430 on both , is within the spec in the service manual. Bench testing the igniter yields all kinds of crazy high resistances, and the voltages are out a bit too. So at this point I'm pretty well convinced this little box of tricks is my culprit. I'm wondering if just the 21119-1020 is the only igniter that will work, or if there are other compatible model numbers as well.


Google that part number. There are various other part numbers in the supercession chain.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1981 kz750 ltd without spark/igniter shot? 06 Oct 2014 17:55 #649889

  • loudhvx
  • loudhvx's Avatar
  • Offline
  • KZr Legend
  • Posts: 10868
  • Thank you received: 1615
Any of the early KZ igniters (on models with mechanical-advance) will work. Some connectors may be different but can be spliced.

You can also make a marginally better, new one, for very cheap. It's not too hard.
home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Ignition/GPZgmHEImod.html

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1981 kz750 ltd without spark/igniter shot? 06 Oct 2014 18:45 #649899

  • CharlieLamberti
  • CharlieLamberti's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 15
  • Thank you received: 0
No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationOrdered one of these;

They have a few so I should end up with a working one.

Saw that same write up in my searches and at some point will likely make one. At the moment I'm looking for something plug and play. I'll let you guys know what shakes out of the bag.
Keep on keepin' on.

1981 kz750ltd

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1981 kz750 ltd without spark/igniter shot? 07 Oct 2014 13:48 #649990

  • zero10
  • zero10's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 71
  • Thank you received: 6
Sorry this is somewhat unrelated but I would like to hop in with a question about the GM HEI setup. In the documentation it is mentioned:

One solution is to not use the W terminal at all and provide a constant 1.4v bias to the pickup externally. The .2v extra bias helps during startup, and by disconnecting the W terminal, the 10k coupling resistor does not bleed off signal, which helps to increase the signal to the G terminal. This results in about 8ms dwell at 1500 RPM which decreases to about 2ms by 10,000 RPM. When a constant DC bias of .7v is used, the dwell remains at approximately 2ms to 2.5ms at 1500 RPM and stays relatively constant to 10,000 RPM where it ends up at about 2.1ms. However, .7v is not enough during start up, and a temporary 1.4v bias will be needed for start up.


Then checking the schematic there are 2 diodes in series to provide a static voltage for the stator's negative terminal. I don't have a spec sheet handy for the diodes mentioned but what is their forward voltage drop? I would expect around 0.7V each for voltage of approximately 1.4V on the negative terminal for the stator. That means you will be in the situation where the dwell is down to 2ms at 10,000RPM, correct? If so, does that have any impact on how the bike runs? How does that compare to the stock ignition's dwell at those speeds?
-

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Last edit: by zero10.

1981 kz750 ltd without spark/igniter shot? 07 Oct 2014 21:37 #650036

  • loudhvx
  • loudhvx's Avatar
  • Offline
  • KZr Legend
  • Posts: 10868
  • Thank you received: 1615

zero10 wrote: Sorry this is somewhat unrelated but I would like to hop in with a question about the GM HEI setup. In the documentation it is mentioned:

notes wrote: One solution is to not use the W terminal at all and provide a constant 1.4v bias to the pickup externally. The .2v extra bias helps during startup, and by disconnecting the W terminal, the 10k coupling resistor does not bleed off signal, which helps to increase the signal to the G terminal. This results in about 8ms dwell at 1500 RPM which decreases to about 2ms by 10,000 RPM. When a constant DC bias of .7v is used, the dwell remains at approximately 2ms to 2.5ms at 1500 RPM and stays relatively constant to 10,000 RPM where it ends up at about 2.1ms. However, .7v is not enough during start up, and a temporary 1.4v bias will be needed for start up.

The latter part of that text is for general notes on the HEI modules. With the stock KZ pickups and coils, you would use the two diodes with one resistor to get a 1.6 to 1.4v bias as mentioned in the earlier part.

I mentioned the .7v bias as that would be useful when using very low resistance coils, like ones found on cars.

zero10 wrote: Then checking the schematic there are 2 diodes in series to provide a static voltage for the stator's negative terminal.

Correct. But it should be "reluctance pickups", or just "pickups", negative terminal. I think stator would imply a rotating magnetic field, but in this case the field is not rotating. The rotor, by rotating, brings the static field closer and farther from the pickup. This produces a pulsating magnetic field, but not necessarily a rotating one. The signal from a rotating field would look different. I think it would have two peaks and two valleys per crank revolution, whereas the pulsating field has one peak and one valley. That way, there is always only one transition from positive to negative.

zero10 wrote: I don't have a spec sheet handy for the diodes mentioned but what is their forward voltage drop? I would expect around 0.7V each for voltage of approximately 1.4V on the negative terminal for the stator.

Correct, but it will be somewhere between 1.3 and 1.4v. Those are rectifying diodes meant to handle a decent amount of current (1A), but when running lower current (10 to 14 mA) , the voltage on one diode is a little lower than .7v. Temperature will also affect the final voltage, but the voltage is not super critical. Probably anywhere from 1.2 to 1.4v would work.

zero10 wrote: That means you will be in the situation where the dwell is down to 2ms at 10,000RPM, correct?

Yes.

zero10 wrote: If so, does that have any impact on how the bike runs?

Not on a stock bike.

If the compression is much higher than stock, or the spark gap is wider than stock, and you are using higher resistance coils, like 3-ohms or higher, then you might lose ignition at higher RPMs with wider throttle openings. It will stumble and possibly not fire at all. But will likely idle and run just fine when the rider is being real easy on RPM and throttle.

zero10 wrote: How does that compare to the stock ignition's dwell at those speeds?

Same as stock at high RPM, but slightly more efficient at lower RPM's, by having less excess dwell.

The stock coils need about 6 msec to reach 90% current saturation.

3-ohm coils need about 12 msec to get to 90% current saturation. (Accel super coils were tested. Dyna's are likely similar.)

90% is somewhat arbitrary, but is likely a reasonable target for these type of coils. (You would not use 90% on low-resistance coils, as that will likely damage the coils.)

Stock dwell goes from about 100 deg at idle and jumps to 120 degrees off idle, then stays at about 120 through redline. That is about 14 msec at idle, and 2 msec at 10k RPM.

The HEI does better at idle than stock. It can be as low as 60 deg at idle, but is usually closer to 80 deg. That is about 11 msec at 1200 RPM. (It is still 120 deg at 10K RPM, which is 2 msec.)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Last edit: by loudhvx.

1981 kz750 ltd without spark/igniter shot? 08 Oct 2014 05:53 #650047

  • zero10
  • zero10's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 71
  • Thank you received: 6
Thanks for the detailed reply. You're right I totally threw the wrong word in there, I didn't mean stator I just had a brain fart in the middle of the sentence it would seem!

Interesting strategy to ensure you stay out of the undefined region on the HEI modules. It's tough to create a reference voltage that low in a way that is easy to build and cheap, series diodes do the job it seems.

I'm going to do some more reading about dwell time and coil behaviour but thanks for humouring me so far!
-

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1981 kz750 ltd without spark/igniter shot? 08 Oct 2014 06:56 #650051

  • loudhvx
  • loudhvx's Avatar
  • Offline
  • KZr Legend
  • Posts: 10868
  • Thank you received: 1615
Nio problem. Those were good questions that haven't been asked before.

Here is some info on coils and dwell.
home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Ignitio...s/IgnitionCoils.html

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

1981 kz750 ltd without spark/igniter shot? 10 Oct 2014 09:19 #650255

  • CharlieLamberti
  • CharlieLamberti's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 15
  • Thank you received: 0
The new to me igniter fixed her right up.
Keep on keepin' on.

1981 kz750ltd

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Page:
  • 1
  • 2
Powered by Kunena Forum