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kz550 charging problem 09 Sep 2014 13:48 #646894

  • nickleo373
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Hey everyone
I was having a charging problem with my KZ550 last year that I thought I had fixed with a new battery. I would ride the bike for a couple weeks and everything would be going good until I tried to start it back up and the battery would seem to be almost dead. The starter motor would turn very slowly until it would stop completely. Pushing the starter button again would make the motor go from being very weak to sounding normal again. All of my lights would also dim every time I used the high beam or turn signals. I rode the bike with the new battery from April until a couple weeks ago without a problem. I noticed my turn signals were reacting very slowly and my lights were dim so I charged up my battery. Everything was working fine up until today. I went to turn the bike on today and it seemed weak. I got to my destination and when I tried to turn the bike back on the starter motor didn't want to turn over and the bike almost left me stranded. When I got home I took to battery out to charge it and noticed white crusty acid running down the battery tray and onto my chain guard. I checked the fluid levels and they are all still close to the top marks on the battery. Can anyone give me an idea of where to start?
1981 KZ550C LTD
"If you ain't first, you're last"

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kz550 charging problem 09 Sep 2014 13:54 #646896

  • MFolks
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Do this before buying a new battery:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach.
Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal response and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting).
I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........


“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “
From a forum member at www.kzrider.com


Re: Cleaning the many and various Motorcycle electrics.
I used the De-oxit D-5 spray on all the electrical connections of my 78 Kz1000 that had sat for twenty years .

When I parked the bike in 92 I was starting to have troubles with some of the electrical system, but after pulling everything apart and giving it a spray , reconnecting the connectors and working them back and forth a few times, then gave them another shot of spray to wash them off before the final reconnection.

Everything still works perfectly and has for over 7000 miles this year.

I am extremely happy with the results , a lot of the connectors were green when I started and after the cleaning they looked new ( shiny gold )

I found the Deoxit D-series, D-5 spray in a 4 oz can at a big electronics store called Frys in Illinois, don't get the small cans at Radio Shack , they are different and meant for computer type stuff.

store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.f


And go to www.electrosport.com , find their troubleshooting page, and follow the directions to see if your bikes charging systems working correctly.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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kz550 charging problem 09 Sep 2014 18:57 #646937

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What battery charger are you using & do you have a digital multimeter?
The service manual outlines the charging system tests & the checks are fairly straight forward.

After charging the battery, it should read 12.6 VDC, but a good battery may be slightly higher.
You can do a high beam test to check that the battery will hold a charge..
My next battery is probably going to be a Scorpion AGM from batterystuff.com.

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kz550 charging problem 09 Sep 2014 19:27 #646950

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Run the diagnostic tests for the charging system as described in the Kawasaki Service Manual. You may have a flaky regulator/rectifier. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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kz550 charging problem 09 Sep 2014 21:12 #646960

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Thanks for the replies. After testing the reg/rec I noticed there was one prong that was reading way higher than the rest of them which seems to indicate a problem. Ive heard different opinions on this so Ill ask here. Is it best to replace it with a used one or should I try to locate a reg/rec that belongs to a newer bike that would fit the kZ550?
1981 KZ550C LTD
"If you ain't first, you're last"

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kz550 charging problem 10 Sep 2014 05:01 #646977

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If your bike has a 3 phase charging system w the 3 yellow wires from the stator, you can use the voltage regulator from a Ninja 500 or Vulcan 500 up to 2009 (credit to loudhvx). I installed one from a low mileage 07 Ninja 500 ($25). The Ninja connector was the opposite from my stock unit, so I had to install new terminal pins & a new connector set because the old one crumbled. easy.

As for buying used or new, used is a risk but I figured a fairly recent one w little use would probably be fine.

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kz550 charging problem 10 Sep 2014 08:59 #647009

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I don't even bother looking for KZ reg/recs anymore. The Ninja ones that Martin described, are far newer and work really well, not to mention, dirt cheap. I actually use a couple from mid 2000's Ninja 250's.

However, you should run the tests, and I hate to say it, but you should get an AGM battery. It's so much nicer to not have all of that acid mess to deal with all the time. I recommend the Scorpion battery at BatteryStuff.com. I've had one for 4 seasons, I think, and it's still going strong, and that is with bare-minimum care.

Even with a perfectly working system, if you live in an area with a lot of traffic, and only take really short trips, and find yourself idling a lot in-between, you may not be riding enough to charge the battery each time. If you don't want to trickle charge the battery once a month, you may want to put in a headlight switch so the bike can warm up without the headlight. That will help re-charge the battery while the bike is warming up.

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Last edit: by loudhvx.

kz550 charging problem 10 Sep 2014 13:21 #647043

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I just got around to charging the battey. From a cold start the battery at idle speed stays at about 11.8 volts. Revving the bike up will charge it at about 13.5 volts. Does this seem weak or is that normal for an older bike?
1981 KZ550C LTD
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kz550 charging problem 10 Sep 2014 14:09 #647056

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Not normal; it is too low. At 4k rpm it should be charging at about 14.5 volts. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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kz550 charging problem 10 Sep 2014 20:23 #647095

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Is the bike stock, electrically? Headlights upgrade or any additional lights? Stock ignition, or aftermarket?

If all stock, then you may be missing one leg out of three, on the charge system. You will have to go through the tests in the manual.

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kz550 charging problem 11 Sep 2014 19:02 #647182

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The bike is completely stock. I just ran more tests on the system and everything seems to be charging but the battery still seems weak. Once warmed up at 4000 rpm the bike charges at about 14.2 volts. The only thing I could find was the bottom right prong recorded 1200ish ohms while the others came in all about 525. The manual that the PO give me when I purchased the bike included how to conduct the test, however they seemed to have left out how to interpret the numbers I received. Am I correct in assuming that a huge change between numbers would indicate a problem with the regulator/rectifier?
1981 KZ550C LTD
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kz550 charging problem 11 Sep 2014 19:50 #647185

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Resistance tests are not very reliable for determining what is going on in the reg/rec. If it was zero, then you'd know something was wrong, but there is no way to verify it is working using a resistance test.

14.2v is good. But one failure mode is for it to work fine at first, but gradually over several minutes, during a ride, the voltage can drop slowly to the point that the reg/rec is putting out nothing. Then your battery drains slowly. I've seen several original reg/recs fail that way.

To test for that, I strap a meter onto the tank and ride with the voltmeter connected securely to the battery. You can get a disposable meter at Harbor Freight for around $4 on sale, sometimes $2.99. But you will have to make some better leads for it. The ones that come with are usually bad.

If you can find a decent used Ninja reg/rec for $10 or $15, I would get it, at least as insurance.

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