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Hot connections 27 Jul 2014 04:22 #641584

  • Jburkart
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So took my 79 SR 650 out for a quick ride. Started up no problem, stop for gas 2 miles from the house and would not restart with electric start like the battery was real low. Blessed with a 79 model so kicker started it right up. Thought I would put it on the battery tender when I got back home. New battery so thought that was a little strange. Rode into town and parked it for about 45 minutes. Started right up with the Electric start. Stalled it at a red light, like a dork and it would not start again with button. Kick start and rode back home. Went to install my new wiring harness for the tender and found this after I popped the plastic cover. How did this thing continue to run? So before I cut away plastic to separate what do you think I should look into? Is this a voltage reg. problem? Or has one of these connections just touch the frame some how?
Andrew coils with the Martek brand CDI.
I've made no changes to this bike before this happened. I've put about 300 miles on it this year and it was sitting before that since 2001.

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Hot connections 27 Jul 2014 06:13 #641588

  • Motor Head
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The connection itself was dirty/ loose enough to cause resistance, which makes heat. This melted the Insulator. You can see in your picture that the Red/ White wire is also getting hot at the bullet connector.
Any of the wire close to those hot spots will feel stiff, unflexable as it has been cooked also. It will need replaced at least back from the connector a few inches where the wire is still good, or all the way back to its connection point, which could be a slice in the harness. That's the connection for your charging system, so that's why your new battery loses charge.
You can buy new insulator connectors and the male/ female terminals to replace the melted parts.
Oregon Motorcycle: oregonmotorcycleparts.com/ will have them.
Or Z1enterprises probably does as well: www.z1enterprises.com/ShopByCategory.asp...rket&category=010101
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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Hot connections 27 Jul 2014 09:15 #641599

  • loudhvx
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After you cut out that connector, keep it as a souvenir and reminder. That's what happens when dirty connections are not addressed on high-current wiring. We often get questions related to this, and that piece makes a good example.
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Hot connections 27 Jul 2014 10:04 #641603

  • MFolks
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I post this now and then, for owners of these older motorcycles:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting).
I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........


“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “
From a forum member at www.kzrider.com


Re: Cleaning the many and various Motorcycle electrics.
I used the De-oxit D-5 spray on all the electrical connections of my 78 Kz1000 that had sat for twenty years .

When I parked the bike in 92 I was starting to have troubles with some of the electrical system, but after pulling everything apart and giving it a spray , reconnecting the connectors and working them back and forth a few times, then gave them another shot of spray to wash them off before the final reconnection.

Everything still works perfectly and has for over 7000 miles this year.

I am extremely happy with the results , a lot of the connectors were green when I started and after the cleaning they looked new ( shiny gold )

I found the Deoxit D-series, D-5 spray in a 4 oz can at a big electronics store called Frys in Illinois, don't get the small cans at Radio Shack , they are different and meant for computer type stuff.

store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.f

Trust MFolks , the guy's a true rocket scientist and really knows what he's talking about.
JD
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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Hot connections 27 Jul 2014 10:42 #641606

  • Jburkart
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Yes great idea, make me the poster child for poor connections.
I was just thinking of just making this my profile pic.

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Hot connections 27 Jul 2014 12:08 #641612

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I'm grateful so thanks everyone.

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Last edit: by Jburkart. Reason: spell check

Hot connections 27 Jul 2014 14:10 #641639

  • MFolks
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Could have had a nasty motorcycle fire there!
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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