TOPIC:

While all it takes is one kick, I am still trying to get Bluella to fire at the push of a button...(such sweet imagined luxury, LOL!) am isolating and trying to test the three components of the circuit: solenoid, starter lockout switch, and starter button. Re: lockout switch, the FSM said to set meter to ohms x1 , test leads across two thin black wires, and activate clutch lever, and I got no change. I am assuming that a simple continuity test would also indicate whether a switch is functioning correctly. well, I got nuthin from that test, either. Bad switch, right? ok, where can I get one, and how are they removed from the clutch housing? The FSM "glossed" right over that part! "if bad, replace" mmmmkay...Found one on fleabay for an SR...snap together modular connector is different, mine has two bullet connectors on the Black wires. as always, any & all input is greatly appreciated!

The clutch lockout switch has 2 ears that can be depressed (see 1st & 2nd pics below). Only 1 of these actually locks it into the clutch perch; the other does nothing. The clutch perch has a depression inside for 1 of the ears. To remove the switch you must depress that ear. There is a hole on the bottom side of the clutch perch for this purpose (see 3rd pic). Just push a metal rod into that hole (you may need to press pretty hard) and you can depress the ear while you pull the switch free from the perch. The type with 2 bullet connectors; both on black wires; is the correct type. (see last pic). Ed

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

Thanx again ed! Any part of your bike you haven't photographed yet? Lol! Pretty simple, actually, (once you posted the pix!) Until I can track down a replace ment, could I bypass that loop of the harnes? I pretty much have to force myself NOT to squeeze the clutch when I kick her..and the neutral light works...not ideal, but really want that pushbutton capability asap! Thanx again!

Ed, I don't think I would be able to find a nicer one! Gonna have to post a tute on your innerwebs searching technique! Lol! But GOLLY, do I HATE to "bid & wait!" I will hafta try plugging the part number in, mebbe another switch the same with different connectors. The used one specced for an SR looked the same on the bay, and it may have had a "buy now" button...hee!. Thanx again!edit: backed off site, went out and found it again its in spain...only 38 ucks with delivery, but I might hold off till mid ohio. (Swapmeet is a monster I hear)Their delivery could take a while....no click from solenoid, but will start with a scredriver across the big lugs.so starter is fine...so clutch switch & solenoid are both sol apparently...yay! Thanx 4 the feedback, all!

The way the switch works is when you push the brass rod in it breaks the connection between the 2 black wires; when you let the rod protrude out the 2 wires are connected. Normally, with the clutch level released it pushes the brass rod in so the wires are not connected (until you pull in the lever). I would suspect you could temporarily just jumper the 2 black wires together to use the starter, but be sure the bike is in neutral or the clutch lever is pulled in. Ed

Jump those two black wires at the clutch switch together as a test, before ordering a new switch. Make sure that its the problem. If not, while you could still have a bad switch, there is also another issue. So keep testing.
Basically you should be able to provide a power and a ground wire to the two small wires at the starter solenoid, once they are UN-plugged from the harness connectors. It won't matter the polarity. Jump one to the battery positive, and then briefly jump the other to battery negative/ ground. The solenoid should audibly click, and if the battery/ cables/ starter are good the motor should turn over. If it clicks, but the starter doesn't turn over. Try jumping the two large terminals on the starter solenoid, with say a socket extension using it as a buss bar. Then you should have a large spark, and the starter should spin turn the motor. If not check all the battery cable connections, and the negative cable at the motor block. If all OK there, suspect the starter itself.

Another version:

Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight. If the cables feel “Crunchy” when flexed, they may have corrosion inside the insulation, requiring replacement.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm

B. www.nationsautoelectric.com/Kawasaki.html

C. www.whitedogbikes.com/cat--Kawasaki-Star...-Starter-Motors.html

D. www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/starters.php

E. www.dbelectrical.com/

F. http://.www.nationsautoelectric.com/Kawasaki.html

10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

MFolks wrote: 9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above.

Before purchasing a new/er starter, you can also give this a try.

Looks like the clutch lockout switch AND the solenoid are bad...no click at solenoid but can jump big terminals with screwdriver...no continuity through lockout switch at all....all those years sitting outside in the weather were hard on her, I guess...Thanx, all!

Where do them wires plug into bro under the head lamp

They run past the gooseneck & connect under the tank.