TOPIC:

I recently acquired a 78' KZ 650B. The previous owner had not started the bike in about 10 years. He did however give me extra parts and a Mech. manual. Here is the problem: The left coil gets juice, but does not have a spark. The right coil (green wire) does not ground. I have traced the wire to the engine points, it reads volts even when the bike is turned off. The black wire at the points reads 0 volts. I have traced the green wire testing it with the bike on, it reads 12v all the way up to the last connection before the points. I have considered changing to a CDI system, any suggestions.

Also there is a black wire from the ignition switch that ties together, it has about an extra 2 feet and ties together, but goes to nothing I can find. When untwisted the bike will not turn over.

I will try to get pics up later, so you can see what I am talking about. The coils are new, so I am pretty sure they are not the problem. Thank you for any help I may.

Check the wiring againg a wiring diagram.

diagrams.kz650.info/wiring/WiringDiagrams.htm

Does your bike have ignition points or electronic ignition?
On the right side of the engine(as you sit on the seat) there should be a CD sized cover held on with two screws/bolts. It will be inline with the crankshaft.

Remove this cover and see what kind of ignition system the bike has. If you have ignition points they may be out of adjustement. If electronic ignition is there, the pick up coils may be damaged,wires loose or missing.

The bike is a point system, I have already adjusted them to what the Mech. manual says. I think my only option is to go through each wire individual and make sure it is good. I have been some of them and found they were fine. Still scratching my head on the black wire that ties to itself from the ignition switch, can not figure out why it is there. I have checked the wiring diagram. a pic is below. It is the black wire at the bottom. Also a pic of the points is below.

when i bought my 77 icouldn't get no spark the coils were ok and igot power from the points, turns out from setting the condensers were bad, put new points and condensers in and fired right up, although it has a elec ign now

I will try that tomorrow, I have new points and condensers that came with the bike.

Make sure the green and black wire connections to the points have the cork (or whatever their made of) washer on each side of the piece(loop) that is attached to the base plate, otherwise the circuit may be grounding out, bypassing the points all together.

Have a look at this picture and you can see that the piece attached to the base plate has the cork washers on either side of it, and the wire connection is to the outside of the cork washer:

Also there is a black wire from the ignition switch that ties together, it has about an extra 2 feet and ties together, but goes to nothing I can find. When untwisted the bike will not turn over.

There are two black wires that connect together under the gas tank. They come from the clutch lever lock out switch. You have to pull the clutch lever in to be able to start the bike using the electric starter.
When using the kick starter you do NOT need to pull in the clutch lever.
Do have the bike in nuetral either way.

Could these two black wires be the ones your refering to?

That is exactly what the black wires are, thank you. The previous owner just wired them together so you would not have to use the clutch.

You need to make sure the points are working as they should. Disconnect the green and black wires from the rest of the system, cover them with tape, and follow the points adjustment procedure in the manual precisely.

Use your meter to make sure each point goes from a dead short to fully open when it is its turn to do so. You may be reading 12V simply because that point is closed at that part of the rotation.

Make sure the coils are good - should be 12-15kohm across the output wires (from plug cap to plug cap), and 4-5ohms on the input.

Did you already try removing the plugs and grounding them to the block and hitting the starter button? Is this where you are not seeing spark?

All you need for spark is 12V going to the coil input and points that go from closed to open. (and good plug caps, plugs)

Well come to find out that the points and everything around them have been butchered. Luckily for me the bike came with another engine. After looking at the second engines points i figured out that the previous owner had rigged some things up. I have switched the engines and am cleaning the carbs. Which is the next problem I broke a float. Anyone know where to get a float for less than $70, that is what the dealership wants, lol.