tscustom wrote:
'77 KZ1000 with a dyna electronic ignition. Some one had it all screwed up and way off, not to mention the mechanical advance was locked up. After i reset and aligned everything I put a timing lite on it and the least amount of timing i could get out of it was 40 degrees btdc running @ 1500rpm. Is this a normal amount or is something else wrong? It seems excessive. It starts and runs ok but i would like better than ok. This is my first KZ so i havent a clue on how to time it. I am more familliar with V-8 engines.
Hello, Anthony -- or maybe "Tony" -- and WELCOME to KZR!
We're glad you're here!
[Click on image to enlarge view]
Ignition timing procedure with Dyna-S on '77 KZ1000 is same as with points. Would begin with backplate mounted in center of oval slots.
Outside spark plugs #1 and #4 fire simultaneously from left-hand side coil signaled by left-hand Dyna-S module.
Inside spark plugs #2 and #3 fire simultaneously from right-hand side coil signaled by right-hand Dyna-S module
The advancer unit has an F mark for #1/4, and another F mark for #2/3.
Use idle speed rpm to set the timing.
At idle rpm the F mark for #1/4 should align with fixed mark on engine case.
At idle rpm the F mark for #2/3 should align with fixed mark on engine case.
Rotate the back plate within its slots to advance or retard timing. Often, the center of the slotted holes is already very close. But if desired thereafter, each Dyna-S module may itself be fine tuned.
The advancer unit is automatic (centrifugal force, weights and springs).
With strobe-type timing light, should see advancer moving back and forth as rpm is changed.
If recalling correctly, it's 40 degrees btdc when reaching its fully advanced position upon attaining about 2,250-2,450 rpm (per factory design).
Ignore the T mark. TDC is not used incident to routine ignition timing.
The oem points system has a cam rotor moving against the point heels to open and close the contacts (lubed by an oil-soaked pad). Dyna-S rotor -- not shown in the photo -- has an imbedded magnet which serves basically the same purpose (i.e., interrupt coil primary wiring ground whereby coil fires through its secondary winding loop through both plugs).
Some common mistakes include (1) mis-routing wires from the Dyna-S modules to the wrong coils, (2) mis-routing sparkplug wires from coils to the wrong plugs, (3) installing the Dyna-S rotor 180 degrees off (the imbedded rotor magnet should be close to 9 o'clock position when F mark for #1/4 aligns with mark on engine case, and close to 3 o'clock position when F mark for #2/3 aligns with mark on engine case.
Good Luck!
P.S. Stock points wires have a solid black wire from left-side points to left-side coil firing #1/4, and a solid green wire from right-side points to right-side coil firing #2/3 (as God and MaKaw intended). Enter Dyna-S with a black collar on a white wire (means black-collared white wire from left-side Dyna-S module to left-side coil firing #1/4), and a green collar on a black wire (means green-collared black wire from right-side Dyna-S module to right-side coil firing #2/3).
Beats me why Dyna uses such color coding instead of simply using the same solid full length wire colors as stock.
The important thing to remember is that the left-side Dyna-S module signals whichever coil is firing outside sparkplugs #1 and #4 (regardless of wire color involved or which side of bike the coil is mounted on). And that the right-side Dyna-S module signals whichever coil is firing inside sparkplugs #2 and #3 (regardless of wire color involved or which side of bike the coil is mounted on).