TOPIC:

The short
Should the timing light flash when connected to wires 1-4 (individually of course) or only 1 and 4? On my bike it isn't flashing on 2 or 3 and I'm having problems with it.


The Long
So I am trying to diagnose a problem I'm having with my bike, 83 Kawasaki kz550 ltd. One day it just stopped running right, it wouldn't idle unless the idle was set to 2k or the choke was out, there was major hesitation and stalling. So I played around with it and read the manual and it said something about putting washers in the carberators on the jet needle so I did that. Great, start up the bike no more hesitation however I went from about 50 mpg when it ran great to 25 mpg now and there is significant loss of pick up speed not to mention top speed which I could go at least 80 before and now it tops out at 55, can't even go up a hill unless I'm in 4th or lower gear.

Anyway so I hook up a timing light just to see what happens even though I realize I have transistorized ignition and it really can't be adjusted. So 1 and 4 were fine but 2 and 3 the light didn't even turn on, now the instructions never said to put it on 2 and 3 I just did it to see what would happen. So my question is, if the light isn't going off then are those cylinders not firing thus loss of power and bad gas mileage? But wouldn't that be very obvious even to a beginner like me? Also headers on 1 and 4 are significantly hotter then 2 and 3 although they are hot. Any ideas any one?

Somebody that can really help you will come along soon I'm sure. Just some random thoughts, if exhaust 2 and 3 are cooler than 1 & 4 I might suspect a coil problem. Check all your wiring to the coil on the right hand side (as you sit on the bike). It could also be one of the pick-ups which might explain why no timing light on 2 & 3. Have you take a plug out of 2 or 3 and held it against the block while cranking to see if you have spark?

A few things to do: Take a day and do not rush this, but remove the gas tank and clean each electrical connector.

The bullet connectors, the square and retangular connectors and all battery terminals such as red(positive) black(negative), the terminals on the starter solenoid and the negative ground. All must be clean and tight as any green crud of corrosion is a voltage drop or non conductor.

A small brass bristle brush works well on battery terminals while 400-600 grit sandpaper will work on the other connectors torn into small strips. Follow the cleaning witha spritz of electrical contact cleaner(Not WD-40!).

If your light is flashing on 1 and 4 and not flashing on 2 and 3, you have an elctrical problem with the ignition system, not the fuel. If the timing light is not flashing it means the plugs are not sparking. start by checking all the wies that lead to the 2/3 coil and then down to the 2/3 pick-up and to the ignition module.

justinlitch wrote:

The short
Should the timing light flash when connected to wires 1-4 (individually of course) or only 1 and 4? On my bike it isn't flashing on 2 or 3 and I'm having problems with it.


The Long
So I am trying to diagnose a problem I'm having with my bike, 83 Kawasaki kz550 ltd. One day it just stopped running right, it wouldn't idle unless the idle was set to 2k or the choke was out, there was major hesitation and stalling. So I played around with it and read the manual and it said something about putting washers in the carberators on the jet needle so I did that. Great, start up the bike no more hesitation however I went from about 50 mpg when it ran great to 25 mpg now and there is significant loss of pick up speed not to mention top speed which I could go at least 80 before and now it tops out at 55, can't even go up a hill unless I'm in 4th or lower gear.

Anyway so I hook up a timing light just to see what happens even though I realize I have transistorized ignition and it really can't be adjusted. So 1 and 4 were fine but 2 and 3 the light didn't even turn on, now the instructions never said to put it on 2 and 3 I just did it to see what would happen. So my question is, if the light isn't going off then are those cylinders not firing thus loss of power and bad gas mileage? But wouldn't that be very obvious even to a beginner like me? Also headers on 1 and 4 are significantly hotter then 2 and 3 although they are hot. Any ideas any one?

The highlighted symptoms indicate that the 2-3 coil is not firing. It's an electrical problem.

I thought 1 and 3 were on a coil and 2 and 4 were on a coil! No?

1 & 4 are tied to one coil. 2 and 3 are tied to the other coil. If 2 & 3 aren't firing, then I would definitely check the resistance of the coil (ohm it out).

check to see if you have voltage to the coil, check them both to make sure they are not weak, also check the plugs, buy a new set, they are not that expensive,
kind of work backwards from the plugs to the ignition system to find the problem

Alright so here is what I have done so far. I replaced the plugs and went for a 75 mile or so trip, when I checked them today 1 and 4 were black and fouled, while 2 and 3 looked like I just took them out of the package. I tested the ohms on the ignition coils and it was 2.6-2.7 ohms on the red/black and red/green wires and then 12.6K on the plugs. So those seems with in normal range, I also tested the pulsing coil and those were in the 400-500 range. So if the 2 and 3 look brand new still and 1 and 4 are all black and gunked, does that mean it would be the igniter coil then? And which one? Thanks guys. Also How exactly do I check the voltage to the plugs? The bike would not be running right? Just key on not running? Thanks a bunch! Alright, I'm going to go check wires and play with it and let you guys know what I can find.

Are these the stock coils? They will fail with heat and time. A good replacement for your bike can be found at www.dynaonline.com They sell replacement ignition systems (Dyna S)that replace the IC Ignitor at the same time.

Another brand of coil is Accel at www.accel-motorcycle.com

To check your voltage going to your coils do this:

Turn your key to the middle setting, turn your ignition switch to "ON". Do NOT start your bike.

At this point, you should have power going to your coils.

Look at one of your coils. You see that yellow/red wire? Follow that wire until you get to a junction. You will notice that the other coil power wire will meet at the same junction. Simply slip your positive lead on your multimeter under the protective cover and touch the metal. Now, just ground your negative on any grounded surface. You should see a voltage reading. That is the voltage going to your coils. It "should" be 12V but most people only see 10V to 11V.

Hope that helps.

MFolks wrote:

Are these the stock coils? They will fail with heat and time. A good replacement for your bike can be found at www.dynaonline.com They sell replacement ignition systems (Dyna S)that replace the IC Ignitor at the same time.

Another brand of coil is Accel at www.accel-motorcycle.com

Z1 sells stock replacement coils for a very low price of $36. That's a steal for a new coil:

www.z1enterprises.com/SearchResult.aspx?...ords=ignition%20coil



EM24-72451
Ignition Coil - 4 Ohm Dual Output - Kawasaki Suzuki
OEM: 33410-45012 -
$36.00

BTW: before you buy a new coil, swap coils in your bike and see if the cylinders that are firing stay with the "good" coil. If not, it means the problem is not the coil.