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I am currently putting a sparx battery eliminator on a 1978 kz 650 b with all the gpz mods. The question is has any one ever used a sparx battery eliminator with a battery with no blinkers or horn or any of that other crap. This is a simple diagram i am looking for. tail light, head light key switch, brake light, battery, fuses, coil and alternator, dyna s and shift light. any suggestions or drawings are much appreciated. thanks

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Thanks i think i found all the connections now

There have been some basic wiring diagrams posted here recently. Do a search for either "mattylight" or "bare bones". I dont think they featured a battery eliminator and I think mattylights bike may have been a 750 but if you find the posts they might just get you pointed in the right diorection.

A battery eliminator is just a capacitor. I'm running a 6000 microfarad, 50-volt capacitor on my 550. Since the 650 is a single-phase, there's a chance you may have to use a bigger cap, like a 10,000 or 15,000.

There are a couple of things you need to do to use a cap. If your bike's regulator has a brown "sense" wire, (I don't think the 78 650 does), then that wire should be wired to the output of the regulator. That is to make sure the cap doesn't get over-charged when the bike is turned off. For a moment, from when you flip the switch to kill the bike to when the motor comes to a stop, the regulator still puts out power, but does not regulate (if it is the brown-wire type). That can pop the capacitor, especially if the bike is in gear and coasting.

The other issue is lighting. It may be impossible to kick start while the lights are on, so you may want to put in a switch to turn all of the lights off. That is because a headlight bulb acts as a short until it gets glowing, then its resistance increases. You also have to rev the bik as you turn the lights on because that brief short may kil the ignition if it's only idling. (I'm using two 55w halogens so the problem is worse for me, but you just have to give the throttle a little blip.) I've found that if the bike dies for some reason, I tend to forget about the light switch. (I'm bump-starting so forgetting the lights are on can make me sweat .) I made a self-holding relay circuit so if the bike dies, the lights are automatically shut off. Then to turn them back on after the bike is running I have to hit the starter button to trigger the lights.

Here's my circuit. Notice the ignition is hardwired to the regulator. I did this to save wire. The kill switch really only kills power to the coils. It's also killing the light relay, but doesn't have to. Obviously, if you get the motor to stop, everything else will be powered off since the capacitor will drain in about a second or less.

Thanks for the help but i am a bit confused. The sparx battery eliminator has 2 yellow wires and a -black and +red wire. I know this is a capacitor but it is also a regulator. I plan on runing a battery as well but i am confused on where the black and red wire connect. I also only want 2 kill switchs one to control headlight and thats it and one to kill bike (key switch). Thanks any other help is appreciated.

I couldn't find any information directly from Sparx.

If the Sparx Eliminator is a regulator and rectifier, then I would suspect the yellow wires go to the alternator, and the red is positive output and the black is ground. You would eliminate the stock reg/rec and put the Sparx in its place. The red and black is where you connect for the 12 volts. In your case the red and black go to the battery.

If you run a battery, then why would you use the Sparx Battery Eliminator?

I just want to use a battery so i am able to use a dyna ignition and also just have more power when bike is idleing. I have spoke with the sparx people and they said the black wire is a ground and the red is the power feed so i guess i just hook up the eliminator to the battery and run everything else like normal. Thanks for the help although i do feel a bit stupid after finding the answer out but better safe than sorry. Thanks

Well, I don't see how the Sparx can give you more power (unless your old reg/rec was defective). The alternator is what determines the power available. The reg/rec only reduces power if there is too much coming from the alternator. However, as long as it's not too expensive, at least you're getting a new reg/rec out of it.

yeah true, the main reason of the switch was to clean up the wiring you can see pics of the bike at photobucket.com just search for the profile odl777 it will show up.
By using the sparx product i was able to get rid of the zener diode and other wiring that is unneeded. but i have one more question i have purchased a switch from z1 enterprises but i am haveing a hard time hooking it up to the rest of the bike any idea wich wires are hot on the switch it is different than my clymer. thanks again!