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Z1 charging problemmas 30 Jul 2008 17:57 #229243

  • fyrbawl
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'75 Z1 - charging system weak ?
* lights off on all tests *

GREEN plug conn. , idle : approx. 13.20 vdc (battery)
GREEN plug conn.,4k rpm : approx. 13.50 vdc (battery)

GREEN plug disconn. , idle : approx. 13.30 vdc (battery)
GREEN plug disconn., 4k rpm : approx. 13.80 vdc (battery)

GREEN plug disconn., ammeter between white fuse wire & starter relay : 7.44 amps at 4k rpm.

STATOR wires : 1.4 ohms on all, none grounded.
STATOR wires : 62 vac on all at 4k rpm.

ROTOR weak ? HELP !

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Z1 charging problemmas 30 Jul 2008 18:36 #229249

  • MFolks
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With the wires disconnected from the regulator/rectifier the output should be from 70-90 volts A.C. (alternating current). I suspect one or more open/burned windings in the stator. Are the connectors showing signs of corrosion or melting/overheating? Remove the left side clutch mechanism cover to gain access to the chain area. The output wires are usually yellow that come from the stator to the rectifier/regulator. check the wiring for breakage and over heating.

The magnetic rotors rarely go bad compared to the stators.
Is this the original stator?

I have three websites for stators and regulators/rectifiers:

1. www.ricksmotorsportselectrics.com
2. www.rmstators.com
3. www.electrosport.com
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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Z1 charging problemmas 31 Jul 2008 05:55 #229317

  • fyrbawl
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Replaced original stator because of broken wires. This one appears good condition. Checked continuity with engine cold & hot. Not open or grounded when checked with DVM. Could be "jumping" to ground when running (higher voltage) I guess. Ever tried the aftermarket stator ? I'll cough up the bucks if that what it takes.

THANKS, Jeff

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Z1 charging problemmas 31 Jul 2008 13:44 #229414

  • MFolks
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1977-78 Kawasaki KZ1000 Charging System Troubleshooter
Written by MShively
Tuesday, 06 February 2007


1.) Battery Test (ignition off): Meter Scale: 20V DC, Meter Connections: Red test lead to Positive battery terminal, Black test lead to Negative battery terminal, Specifications: 12V min. No more than 1V drop, If up to spec proceed; if below spec, replace battery and retest.

2.) Battery Test (ignition on) (lights on): Meter Scale: 20V DC, Meter Connections: Red test lead to Positive battery terminal, Black test lead to Negative battery terminal, Specifications: 12V min. No more than 1V drop; If up to spec proceed, if below spec charge or replace battery and retest.

3.) Charging System Test: Meter Scale: 20V DC, Meter Connections: Red test lead to Positive battery terminal, Black test lead to Negative battery terminal, Specifications: 13.6V @ 4000 RPM; If above or below spec proceed to next test, if up to spec-charging system is OK.

4.) Alternator Test: Meter Scale: 120V AC, Meter Connections: Disconnect alternator output leads. Check AC output between all three alternator leads @4000 RPM, Specifications: 62V @ 4000 RPM; If up to spec proceed, if low-replace stator armature and retest.

5.) Rectifier Test: Meter Scale: R x 1 Ohms, Meter Connections: (Disconnect Rectifier) (1) Connect Black test lead to ground wire from rectifier. With Red meter lead, check each Yellow rectifier lead for resistance. (2) Connect Red test lead to ground wire from rectifier. With Black meter lead, check each Yellow rectifier lead for resistance. Specifications: Resistance in one direction, very little resistance when test leads are reversed (check service manual for ohm specs). If good proceed, if bad replace rectifier and retest.

6.) Regulator Test: Meter Scale: 12 Amp, Meter Connections: Connect meter in series with battery. Connect Black meter lead to ground, and Red meter lead to Negative terminal of battery. Kick start engine, and recheck meter reading @ 4000 RPM. CAUTION! Do not use electric starter. Specifications: 5.8A @ 4000 RPM; If up to spec proceed, if high or low-replace replace regulator and retest.

7.) Unregulated System Test: Meter Scale: 12 Amp, Meter Connections: (Disconnect regulator from system) Connect meter in series with battery. Connect Black meter lead to ground, and Red meter lead to Negative terminal of battery. Kick start engine, and recheck meter reading @ 4000 RPM. CAUTION! Do not use electric starter. Specifications: 9.5A @ 4000 RPM; If good, test complete. If bad, go back to #1 – Start over.


Try this test. It's for a 77-78 Kz1000 but I doubt much has changed.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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