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Hey all,

Anyone ever use these?
www.aztec8.com/catalog/i4.html

In reviewing others postings of going duals regarding low output (extra 55w/60w bulb) I'm figuring it may just work due to Integrated LED tail and turn signals drawing less current.

It may be just enough especially if using high efficiency bulbs.

Thoughts?

Old Man Rock

They must be nice because the sellers are sure proud of them, $228.00? Then and again I'm pretty cheap.

Replacing tail and front parking lights (the ones that are always on) with LEDs saves you about 22 watts, seems like that is less than half the 55w that the extra bulb is going to use.

It gets close though, I think there is an extra 30w or so available from the charging system, it might take longer rides to recharge the battery if you use the electric start every time though.

Try it and see how it works

At 4K rpm, you have about 12A total to spend if your AC legs are putting out 48VAC a leg which is a GOOD voltage for an older KZ. The AC output drops a lot when you are at idle or going slow; perhaps down to ~6A. There is probably a way to figure out how much voltage the bike uses but I certainly can do it... especially when you use the horn and switch to high beam. When you are idling, there just isn't enough power to run two big spotlights if they are drawing 55W each or even if only one is. You might get away with running this type light system when running at higher speeds but I would look for aux lights that used less power. Last, I really think you had best consider swapping out your fuse block for a more modern and running the lights on their own circuit. I would put a switch inline with the lights so that they could be turned off, especially when starting the bike as they would not like to compete with the starter drain.

I don't want to seem like a wet blanket as far as these lighting projects go as we have tons of those nasty little white-tails wanting to commit suicide on a motorcycle here in the Hill Country but the charging system on a KZ just ain't all that robust! DEFINITELY don't wire aux lights to any existing circuit. The old wires and plugs won't like it.

Most KZ charging systems are rated 20 amps at 14 volts, so that's 280 watts, and most KZ Factory Service Manuals list the wattage draw of all the lights/etc.

Examples from the 81-82 KZ1000/1100 manual (the only one handy at the moment).

Horn, 2.5 amps, =35 watts
Tail light 8 watts
Brake light 27 watts
Headlight 55/60 watts
Front running lights 8 watts each, 16 watts total

It don't list the power draw for the ignition, but I think it's 5-7 amps (I think Loudhvx has measured it, so he'd know for sure).

Everything considered, that will leave you around 100-150 watts for recharging the battery and powering the extra light, when riding down the road at around 4000 rpm and not using the horn, turn signals, or brakes.

Going to be close.

Like George said, power the lights off a relay and replace the fuse box with a newer type that uses blade fuses.

Keep in mind that at low rpm you are going to be running off battery power, the alternator won't be able to put out enough power to keep up.

Steve, I have measured the AC voltage on quite a few older KZs and I have never seen one that made the voltage needed to get 20A. Most are kind of puny and don't make the AC voltage they claim in the manual. Perhaps when they were new and had new wiring harnesses. I can't do any computing as I don't have any idea what the ignition system draws... the light bulbs you noted are kind of easier to get a handle on and the battery issue is foggy to me. It is sometimes a draw when charging and sometimes gives off electricity when the stator ain't making enough so that would figure as a loss I guess. Maybe Loudhvx will chime in here and go through his view of this stuff. I know that most cruisers I am familiar with can fry their electrical system if they use a lightbar with two 50W spots. That is why most light bars designed for say, a Vulcan, which has a better and more modern charging system and wiring harness only use two 35W bulbs and then folks will shut off the lightbar when trolling through town. I also think you need to figure worst case on the charging system, like blowing your horn, with the aux lights on at lower speeds and having the high beam on as you don't want to have certain operating conditions where you will automatically fry things. Excellent thread... hope others jump in. I am more pratical than theoretical on the electric stuff and it is good to have real numbers and answers on this kind of stuff.