TOPIC:

my bike is running like crap so today i read the section in my manual about adjusting the points and setting the timing. when i took off the cover, surprise, i have electronic ignition! so what adjustments can i make and what other checks should i make to eliminate the ignition system as possible problem?

oh, the motor idles great, but it bogs out under acceleration.

Start off by listing what bike(year and model)in your signature line,ok...makes it a lot easier for members to reply.

...forgot to say it's a 78 kz650 and the ignition matches the pictures i can find online of dyna III.

iversonic wrote:

my bike is running like crap so today i read the section in my manual about adjusting the points and setting the timing. when i took off the cover, surprise, i have electronic ignition! so what adjustments can i make and what other checks should i make to eliminate the ignition system as possible problem?

oh, the motor idles great, but it bogs out under acceleration.

If not already done, would:

Check timing with strobe-type timing light, and also assure correct operation of advancer by watching it move back and forth as rpm is varied;

Remove sparkplugs and check spark quality on each plug (also determine condition of plug from visible appearance and color of each plug -- sooty or not, black, tan, white, whatever);

While plugs are out, perform compression test on each cylinder (holding throttle wide open);

Install brand-new sparkplugs;

Check condition of battery for full charge, fluid levels in cells, clean tight terminal fittimgs, and good solid connection where negative cable attaches to engine or frame;

Measure voltage across battery terminals, bike off (12-13 volts), idle rpm (12-13 volts), 3000-4000 rpm (14-16 volts);

Measure voltage reaching each coil primary winding, to assure minimum drop in voltage between battery and coil;

Check ohm reading of primary winding in each coil;

Check ohm reading of secondary winding in each coil.


Btw, what coils and plug-wires and plug-caps are being used? Might have leakage somewhere between coil and plug tip, especially with old wiring and caps. Could spray water mist over plug wires while engine is running in a dark garage, and watch for arcing.


Good Luck!

you can go on dynas site, they havea tech section there, but you should check everything first which will include checking the timing

ok, thanks for the advise so far. i'm gonna start checking the stuff patton mentioned. i'll be posting a few pics soon so someone can see if there's some obvious problem and help me figure out what i have. the coils are black and say made in japan on the top

bskz650, do you have a link to that tech section? i found the dynatech website but i'm not finding a tech section.

now i'm gonna ask a few, probably stupid, questions...
1) why does dynatech advertise the dyna 3 as needing no timing adjustments?
2) how can i watch the advancer functioning when it's located under the blue mounting plate?
3) should i be feeling a shock when i disconnect one of the plug caps while the bike is running?

i already replaced the battery and a faulty petcock to rule them out. all four plugs looked a little damp, but that was after it was bogging out really bad and i let it cool down

iversonic wrote:

...questions...
1) why does dynatech advertise the dyna 3 as needing no timing adjustments?
2) how can i watch the advancer functioning when it's located under the blue mounting plate?
3) should i be feeling a shock when i disconnect one of the plug caps while the bike is running?

1) Thinking Dynatech means after the initial timing which is set upon installation. There's no wear in the Dyna, so unlike points that do wear and require periodic adjustment, the Dyna needs no adjusting to maintain its setting.

2) The F means "Fire" as when a sparkplug fires. With strobe-type timing light at idle rpm, the F mark on the advancer should align with the permanent mark on the engine case. Keep looking at alignment of the marks while increasing the rpm, and watch the F mark "move" counterclockwise, which "advances" the timing by moving the Fire position in relation to position of the crankshaft, so that the plug fires sooner. Note the leftside module signals whichever coil fires outside plugs #1 and #4 simultaneously. And the rightside module signals whichever coil fires inside plugs #2 and #3 simultaneously. When setting ignition timing, just ignore the T mark (which means TDC or top dead center and is used for other things besides ignition timing).

3) Yes. Avoid the tingle by using pliers with well insulated handles. A good method for checking spark quality is to remove the plug, reattach the cap, hold plug base against engine, crank it over with ignition switched ON, and watch the plug spark. Look for a healthy fat spark. While doing this, the other plug from the same coil should also be connected and grounded.

Good Luck!