TOPIC:

At which mark do you know when cylinders 1 and 4 or 2 and 3 reach TDC? I'm trying to set the gap now, and then do it with a timing light... Its a 1979 KZ 650, about how much gap should there be? Thanks
-Ed

around 16 on the gap.should be a T mark and an F mark if its like a 900-1000 T is TDC.F is the mark to use with timing light.

Hmmm I mean when I'm setting the gap without the bike running.. Which mark should it line up to when which set of gaps is fully open or closed? Shouldn't one be open and one completely closed on the F mark, then the same for the other F mark? Just got a timing light so I went to finally set timing, and its worse than it was before.. Its got a deep rumbling backfire and a real loud POP back fire on slowing down. Also the ducts going from airbox to carbs were lose so I put big clamps on them to make sure no air was leaking there. Could it just be running rich now that I cut off some of the extra air that may gotten through is blocked off...?
ITs a 1979 KZ 650.

Regardless of which timing method is used, whether static method with engine not running, or dynamic method with engine running, the ignition timing should be set whereby outside sparkplugs #1 and #4 fire when the F mark aligns with the case mark.
Then repeat for F mark as to #2/3.

[Click image to enlarge view]



Ignore the T mark during ignition timing. The T mark (meaning Top Dead Center, or TDC) is used for other things besides ignition timing. As known, the sparkplugs fire before TDC.

In the picture, timing is set too far advanced.

Good Luck!

Ah hah. Havin a rough time gettin it close.. Could my carbs being out of synch affect this?
Also: Right on the F mark, bike off, one set of points should be closed and would should be open at the correct gap.I can't find the proper gap, anyone know it? For static timing I mean. I want to static time it then dynamic so I can get as close as possible. Thanks a bunch.

Could navigate from these links for some good KZ650 stats and info.

KZ50 stats

More KZ650 stats

Poorly synched carbs has no effect on ignition timing procedure so long as the engine will idle at a low enough rpm.

Is is correct to clean and gap both sets of points before setting the ignition timing.

When points on lefthand side open, one coil fires outside plugs #1/4. When points on righthand side open, the other coil fires inside plugs #2/3.

I would just forget the static timing and use only the timing light.
Be sure to also assure the automatic advancer unit is working properly,
by watching it advance and retard as the engine rpm is varied by blipping the throttle.

Good Luck!

Forgot to mention -- when starting from scratch on timing, just set the large circular backing plate so the three attachment screws are in the middle of the elongated holes, which is usually a decent beginning position. And use the timing light from there. Fine tune each set of points by loosening the two screws in the two slotted holes for each set of points and using the pry nitches. Usually there's enough movement leaway without needing to move and reposition the large round circular backing plate. The two screws closest to the points are for setting the gap (screw nearest the heel is a pivot, while the other screw allows movement to vary gap width)

Ahh. Thanks a bunch. Do you know of any links with pictures of this? I'm going to try it tomorrow, just want to make sure I know exactly what I'm doin.

Set the gap at .014 (book says .012 to .016), do this by turning the bolt head in the center (with a 17mm wrench)until the left set of points is fully open, then set the gap by using the 2 screws that attach it to the backing plate. Do the same for the right side.
Then turn the crank until the F mark lines up with the timing mark for the 1-4 set. Adjust the timing by using a multi-meter from ground to the points and adjust so that the meter starts to fluctuate (begining to open). Do this by loosening the 2 screw to the LEFT of the points.
Repeat for the other set, don't forget to line up the F for the 2-3 cylinders.

If you do not have the 2nd set of screws on the outside of the points then you ignition is from 1980 or later. In that case just turn the backing plate for the left side and if the timing is incorrect for the right side then you adjust the point gap on that side (be sure that it is between .012 and .016).

I just did this yesterday (correctly) after messing with it for about 4 hours on Sunday.

If you need a copy of the pages for this let me know.
Good luck

Alright, using the timing light and rotating the backing plate fully counter clockwise I got 2 and 3 perfectly on the F. As for the 1 and 4, its just where it is in the picture above. I adjusting the gap while its running with a light I can't get it to change at all.. What am I doing wrong? Is turning the backing plate setting the time, then gapping the points something else? I thought the gapping was the timing, because when the points close the plugs fire. No?
Thanks,
-Ed

(Oh, theres two screws on each set of points, and there are three on the backing plate.)

Any ideas why its doin this? I'm stuck.. Thanks again.

And how do you test the advancer? I don't really know whatcha mean by "blipping" the throttle either...