TOPIC:

I just replaced the points and timed it (staticly). Now I have 2 problems:
First: the points seem to be shorting to the cover: it runs ok with the cover off but barely runs with it on, I covered the inside of the cover with electrical tape and it seems to run OK.
Second: It now seems that the engine does not always idle down when I release the throttle to shift or at a stop.

Any ideas on these problem will be greatly appreciated along with any tips on the actually setting of the points and timing (I followed the Clymers manual for the most part and looked here for tips. I couldn't get it going very well at first but after about 5 tries it seems OK but I haven't gotten gas yet to check the mileage).

Thanks a million

ssbn659 wrote:

I just replaced the points and timed it (staticly). Now I have 2 problems:
First: the points seem to be shorting to the cover: it runs ok with the cover off but barely runs with it on, I covered the inside of the cover with electrical tape and it seems to run OK.
Second: It now seems that the engine does not always idle down when I release the throttle to shift or at a stop.

Any ideas on these problem will be greatly appreciated along with any tips on the actually setting of the points and timing (I followed the Clymers manual for the most part and looked here for tips. I couldn't get it going very well at first but after about 5 tries it seems OK but I haven't gotten gas yet to check the mileage).

Thanks a million

Have a look at the wires coming off the condensers if they are looped up then they *may* short out, otherwise, it seems like an odd problem.

Static timing is good enough to get an engine to start. If you can do it all, a dwell meter and a timing light will get them in a much better state of tune.

With regards to your second question, that sort of behavior is generally a carburetor issue. At least I think it is... Others would know better about that one.

Sam

I'm not running points ignition on my bike anymore,but I THINK there's isolating washers where the condensers hook up to the points plate.Check and see,and make sure you have the washers on either side of the connection at the POINTS plate,where the terminals hook up.
You don't want any current between the POINTS plate and the BASE plate.

(I think I have that right,lol)

Have you tried re-installing the original parts and testing?

Possibly bad condenser is causing the erratic behavior, usually it will run like crap and not so much as an idle issue.

Possible with new points and condenser installed a carb synch and idle adjustment is required. If they had been previously tweaked to compensate for the old warn out parts.

As for the short, as samwell mentioned are the spade connector termination orientations correct. One of the spade tips touching the engine case?

Old Man Rock

I'll check the washers today, the wires run low not high towards the top cover.
I don't believe that there is a carb issue as the problem only started when I changed the points and condensor.
I have not tried the old components again. The bike runs fairly well with no cover or the cover insulated from the engine. I ran 100 miles yesterday with it and got 44.16 mpg. I think that the timing is still off.

When I time the bike the manual said to set the point gap then put the 1-4 F mark (should it be the T mark?)under the timing mark and adjust the points to just start opening (checked with a meter) by using the 2 screws that mount the points to the backing plate. Then do the same for the 2-3 set of points.
Does this make sense? Wouldn't that change the point gap? Should I rotate the backing plate when setting the timing after I set the point gap?

I really appreciate the help here, this is my first time doing points/timing on a bike (I have done it on old cars before, similar but not the same). By the way I do not have a dwell meter but I do have a timing light.

Washers were OK. I made a temorary gasket out of a cork board for the cover, that works fine. Apparently there is suppose to be gasket there, I imagine that the new components caused enough spark to short out to the cover without the gasket (or because it was timed wrong).

I redid the point gaps (way off they were at .007+.009 instead of .014), I also retimed the bike(properly this time). The manual has a separate section in the back for 1980 and later models which had different instructions for setting the timing.

All seems to be well now, I'll let you know what I get for mileage tomorrow as I just got gas today.

By the way the bike now has about 16K miles. I have put on 2,000 miles since May 3, 2008 (when I finally got it going after sitting for about 10+ years). Not too bad for free (OK about $700.00 in parts etc.).

Getting about 46mpg, still need a little adjusting maybe