Welcome, Guest
Username: Password: Remember me
  • Page:
  • 1

TOPIC:

Main cutoff swwitch? 26 May 2008 03:27 #215887

  • dkellogg3
  • dkellogg3's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 4
  • Thank you received: 0
Hello all, did a search but couldn't find anything, but that's not saying much because I often have problems with forum searches....

I have a slow draw on my battery that I don't have time right now to track down. So, I was thinking, rather than unconnecting the battery each time I use the bike, why not just intall a main cutoff switch on the dash.

Okay, so my questions are:

1. Is there any reason this wouldn't be okay?
2. Has anyone done this, and if so can you provide details?
3. What amperage switch and what gauge wire would I need? I saw at Radio Shack yesterday that they have a lit 25amp rocker switch.
4. The above switch had 3 posts: power, load, and ground. I'm guessing wire from (+) batery post to "power", wire to electrical loom on the "load", and wire to (-) battery post to "ground"?

Thanks!
Don

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Main cutoff swwitch? 26 May 2008 08:07 #215919

  • loudhvx
  • loudhvx's Avatar
  • Offline
  • KZr Legend
  • Posts: 10868
  • Thank you received: 1615
If the switch is plastic, forget it. They melt (usually in the "on" position). If it's a big bake-light switch with a metal toggle, it'll be alright. If you are planning for the switch to handle the electric starter, then that's a bad idea too.

Automotive stores have battery disconnects for the purpose you are describing, but I don't know if they'll work on small motorcycle batteries.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Main cutoff swwitch? 26 May 2008 16:30 #216003

  • The Milkman
  • The Milkman's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 794
  • Thank you received: 194
Before going to the trouble of installing the switch, you could do a simple test. Remove the positive cable from the battery, wire a low wattage bulb between the battery and the cable, if there is any draw with nothing turned on the light will light, the brighter the light the more draw there is. If the light lights you can remove the fuses one at a time to see which curcuit is causing the problem, pulling the main fuse will remove all curcuits from the battery because that feeds the ignition switch which gives power to the other 2 fuses. If the light doesn't light at all there is no draw and your battery itself is probably the culprit. Also, if the top of the battery is cruddy it is also possible the current is flowing across the battery itself and killing it.
78 650-C2, Stock engine, Jardine 4-2 Exh., 17-38 sprockets, dyna ignition and coils, coil wiring mod, carb mod.
The following user(s) said Thank You: GPz550D1

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Last edit: by The Milkman.

Main cutoff swwitch? 27 May 2008 06:20 #216106

  • dkellogg3
  • dkellogg3's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 4
  • Thank you received: 0
I guess I could do this with a multimeter too, and read the current. I think mine measures down to milliamps.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Main cutoff swwitch? 27 May 2008 13:52 #216211

  • bountyhunter
  • bountyhunter's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 7246
  • Thank you received: 337
dkellogg3 wrote:

Hello all, did a search but couldn't find anything, but that's not saying much because I often have problems with forum searches....

I have a slow draw on my battery that I don't have time right now to track down. So, I was thinking, rather than unconnecting the battery each time I use the bike, why not just intall a main cutoff switch on the dash.

Okay, so my questions are:

1. Is there any reason this wouldn't be okay?


You would still need to have the +12V power lead to the starter go direct, NEVER through a switch. That would fry the switch.

The other bad part of putting in a single switch is you have to run all the wires up to it and longer wire leads means more voltage drop before getting to the end load it's powering.
1979 KZ-750 Twin

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Main cutoff swwitch? 27 May 2008 13:54 #216212

  • bountyhunter
  • bountyhunter's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 7246
  • Thank you received: 337
dkellogg3 wrote:

I guess I could do this with a multimeter too, and read the current. I think mine measures down to milliamps.

Start with the highest current range on the meter and work down. They are fused internally.
1979 KZ-750 Twin

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Main cutoff swwitch? 27 May 2008 14:05 #216218

  • RonKZ650
  • RonKZ650's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 3698
  • Thank you received: 237
Most the KZs already have a basic cutoff switch as part of the ignition switch. Main power goes through the 20A fuse up to the switch and when off the doesn't flow anywhere from there. There are also wiring from the battery to the starter relay and to the reg/rectifier that has volts all the time regardless of switch position. So if your bike is the basic KZ I would suspect the reg/rectifier as being the draw. Other added aftermarket equipment can definately be a suspect too.
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Main cutoff swwitch? 27 May 2008 19:52 #216292

  • dkellogg3
  • dkellogg3's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 4
  • Thank you received: 0
1980 KZ650. Thanks for all the info. Previous owner told me about the slow draw, so I've just been disconnecting the battery. I'll try the troubleshoooting Milkman suggests.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Page:
  • 1
Powered by Kunena Forum