TOPIC:

Hello All,

I have a 78 KZ650 B, I was a knuckle head and didn't pull my battery for the winter. I tried to start the bike, and the battery was dead. I grabbed a jumper buddy and hooked upped to the battery directly(didn't put the negative on the bike frame).

The bike started without much trouble(yay), and all the lights and signals worked. I revved the motor, and shut the bike off. Tried to re-start without the jumper buddy, no Joy, Put it back on, and the bike started fine, BUT now I lost many lights listed below.

Flashers don't come on at all, when I hit the flashers, no lights come on, but the idiot light by the key, the left turn indicator is on but not flashing.

Rear brake nothing, no running light or brake light(tried both brakes)

Headlight is ok, and both high beam and low beam are ok, but the idiot light by the key doesn't light up.

Idiot lights by the key:

when I turn the key to On, the oil light comes on, and when I start the bike, it turns off. None of the other lights work, I did see the neutral green light come on when I first started the bike, but no more.

High beam idiot light doesn't come on either.

I've installed a new battery, and all 3 fuses are OK, when the switch is on, I have 12+ volts on both sides of the fuses, and they are all clean.

Do the lights that don't work run off the bike suppled power, and not the battery?? or did I burn up a wire.

I have 12+ volts when the bike is off, when I start the bike, and slowly raise the rpms to over 4000, the voltage goes up to 15.5 volts, and stops there when I give it more rpms(regulator good there I think) I've done some ohms checks between the yellow and black wires, and I get no measurable ohms, but I want to try with a different meter(I do get 0 ohms when I touch the leads though).

The problem also has me thinking it's in the key switch, but wanted to get a few ideas before I tear apart the headlight and key switch.

Looks like the voltage/rec costs $85-$100, I hear the factory part is cheap, so where do I turn for an after market part if it's needed??

Can I test the flasher and signal relays?? Bulbs test out OK, I'm not getting voltage to the bulbs.

I did check all the wire connections behind the headlight(not inside) and under the tank, and all is well(lightly sanded all connections, and put back together with di-electric gel), and saw no abraded wires.

How bad is this fix going to be??

Thanks

Bob

I know you said you checked them already, but I'd suggest replacing the fuses anyway - even though the filament(s) may show as being intact through the glass, chances are it/they burnt up on the ends.
I've had it happen many times like this.
Also check the bulbs, as it sounds like you might have just gotten off lucky and popped a few instead of something more serious and expensive.


Another suggestion is that once you figure your bikes current prob out, is swap in a fuseblock that uses the blade type (ATO, etc.) type fuses. A good portion of the members here have done this cheap and easy little upgrade, and I've yet to hear anyone unhappy about doing it.
The blade fuses are more readily available than glass fuses, and the entire filament is visible so there's no second guessing if one is blown or not.
Multiple (3, 4, etc) blade type fuse blocks can be purchased at just about any auto parts store, as well as the multitude of online suppliers for about $10.


And last but not least, welcome to KZr.

I'll offer advice if you print "The red 650's are the fastest!" in your signature line.

I don't think using one of those portable battery packs to jump your bike is bad for it, and it seems like the charging system is a bit high by a volt.

Go to the "Filebase" and under the "Not model Specific" section is a charging system flow chart by Electrosport. You can use that to check the 78's system. Have you checked the white connector to the regulator/rectifier? Mine had heavy corrosion, which created much heat and melted the connector. Before I found this I was popping bulbs left and right and losing my battery charge. I cut it out and replaced it.

Also in the Filebase section under your "Year" is a couple of great full color wire diagrams for the 78 650.

If you don't have voltage to the bulbs then check if there is voltage at the next connection back, and so on, until you get to a connection with power. (in the same circuit of course.) The problem lays between the two points.

Have fun, good luck, write back.

Two more questions:
1. Do the lights inside the speedometer and tach work?
2. Do the blinkers work if you turn on the Hazard switch?

Normally a battery will just get weak or short. In this case there's nothing wrong with trying a jump, however it's possible the battery open circuits internally. In this case there is no load on the system once the jumper is removed while the engine is running. The regulator will not regulate the voltage and your charging voltage will go sky high. Reason I know this is I had a negative terminal break off my 78 KZ650 one time while I was riding and burned out every bulb on the motorcycle that was on. An open in the battery itself would do the same thing. You may just need a new battery and several bulbs. I doubt you hurt the regulator.

Not widely realized.... and often argued about... is that it is DANGEROUS to jump start a car or bike with a messed up battery. The battery basically is the giant filter capacitor that keeps the pulsing DC current coming from the alternator down to a smooth +14V. If one of the cells of the battery flakes out and opens or goes to a high impedance state,you are screwed. The alternator will be banging the system with voltage spikes. Last time I jumped a "dead battery" on my bike it sort of worked... I got it running, and it ran about one mile. It wiped out:

most of the light bulbs (all of the small bulbs in the instruments and gauge panel)

my electronic ignition CDI module

solid state flasher assembly

Jump starting to a bad battery is always a crap shoot. Best to try to charge the battery from a charger then try to start the bike. If the battery won't take a charge and turn the starter, IT IS HOSED. Use at your peril.

Thanks for all the Tips guys, this forum is very helpful.

I've got the problem fixed.

I installed new Fuses, and I agree changing to the new type of fuses is a great idea, but this bike is going to be sold, so I'm keeping it stock(it's been replaced with a F650 GS, 60mpg, and this fall I'll take delivery of the F800 GS, OHHH BABY).

I then stared checking the red wire that goes from the battery up to the headlight area, and at that connection I got an intermittent short, so I replaced the wire, now I have voltage to the signals and brake light, I was yelling for joy. I then started checking bulbs, and I had BLOWN 90% of the bulbs on the bike, just like some posters of this thread had. I replaced all the bulbs, and put a few spares under the seat, and I also have some spare fuses for the new owner. I Never had to pull the headlight, or pull apart the key switch(I was 50% sure this is where my problem was, I was WRONG). I was impressed how easy it was to change the dash bulbs.

I also had to replace the flasher and turn signal relays($5 each at checker), and found the bulbs at checker as well, $26 for all of them. It was nice not having to goto a cycle shop for the bulbs. 1157's in the front signals, and tail light, 1156's in the rear signals, and 53's in the dash panel.

Will I jump start again, I don't think so, but I've jumped my K1200LT with no trouble before(battery eating bike), I must of cooked the bulbs, and wire when I rev'ed the motor without removing the portable battery pack. On a KZ, I'll never jump again, I'll charge the battery.

Lesson learned for me, I should of removed the battery for the winter, and charged it once a month, or left it on a battery tender. Maybe if I had connected the battery pack to the frame with the negative cable this might not of happened??

Total cost,

Battery(from Walmart) $30
Bulbs and relays from Checker $36
Fuses $5
2 small tufts of hair, and 4 hours poking with the multimeter, and reading my Clymer manual.

I just need a small jetting tweak, and this one is ready for sale(for another thread, altitude I 'm thinking).

Thanks all, and I'd bet the Red one goes faster ATM than My Blue one,lol

Be careful with the jump starts.