TOPIC:

I noticed that my running light was dim.

The stop lamp gets full power, but the running light gets about 4 volts. (as tested on cleaned contact points through the plug for the running/brake lamp).

I'm gonna have to wait 'til tomorrow to search for it, gotta go to work now. But I'm wondering if this has happened to anyone else before.

Cheers,

Q

connections in wiring harness,possibly bad ground also;) check power from socket to the engine cases and see if you have 12v

plummen is right, most of the time the lights are dim its due to a ground issue, you can check it real quick off the brake light switch, see what you ahve there and you can work either wich way

Yep, bad ground it was... Was able to fix it during a break at work, yes it was pretty slow.

Now I have another project with this that I really need advice with, as it is easily out of my ability to fix in my head...

The led flashing brake/tail lamp that I installed is working correctly. Instead of a running light, it has this slow whirly pattern with intermittent circular motion and flashes. During braking the lamp strongly flashes.

I am happy with the lamp itself, even though it only works when the rpm's are around 3500 and up or so.

The problem is that now my dash warning light reads the lamp as defective, in that now I get a constant red flashing from it. I believe this flashing to be the same flashing I saw when I removed the lamp altogether, as if it were a brake lamp failure warning or something.

I enjoyed having the lamp on the dash that turned on while I was braking. I was wondering if any wire-heads here would be able to help me to add to the circuit so that I may still be able to have the brake lamp dash lamp function as it did when I had the regular incandescent lamp installed.

I imagine that I may have to install a relay for the warning lamp sensor to read instead of the lamp itself. I am no stranger to a soldering iron as I built my rectifier from plans online.

Does anyone have the know-how for my problem here?

Cheers,

Q

the LEDs use less power to run, thus less resistance, I think the warning light is looking for full resistance lou may be able to chim in on how much of a resistor is needed to make it work.

I think you are on to something here!!!

I notice that the light does not work properly at low idle (who am I kidding, low idle here also includes about 2800 rpm:laugh: , I will nail down the specific rpm number today, but it is towards the 3000 range) so a resistor on the line to the brake light failure indicator light unit might be the key.

That or a relay unit to up the voltage across the board? Which would be best?

I would also like to up the voltage to my turn signals circuit. For brightness sake. And I want to be careful to not mess with the voltage values there either.

Thanks all!!

P.S. Painted my back wheel yesterday, gonna go for the engine soon (again). I'll spare the pics for lack of huge change as of yet, but I am really happy with how it is so far.

I dont know how you are going to increase the voltage to the turn signals, they work off of the battery/charging system,
I had a friend who rebulit the turn signals and brake light to take a group of LEDs, in the process he found that the self cancel system would not work and his brake light indicator would not work either, either one was not a big deal to him