TOPIC:

Hey all,
I've been reading about WG's Mod, and I thought I would give it a try this week. I checked my coils and they are both 8 VDC. Today, I bought the stuff to do it, but the only inline fuseholder they had was a 25A blade style with 14 guage wire. Will this work mixing the blade style (and smaller guage wire) with the glass tube style in the fuse panel?
I read some of the other threads on switching over to all blade style for the fuse panel, and I plan on doing that also.
Thanks

8 Vdc is a real problem. Sounds like you have two ways to go:

1) Keep the 14 AWG wire and fuse holder and swap-in a 5 AMP fuse. 14 AWG is OK.

2) Get a fuse block with an extra fuse position and insert a 5 AMP fuse. That's what I did but I used 12 AWG just because I had some in my shop.

Best of success!

that 14ga wire would start smoking long before a 25a fuse would ever go.

bill_wilcox100 wrote:

8 Vdc is a real problem. Sounds like you have two ways to go:

1) Keep the 14 AWG wire and fuse holder and swap-in a 5 AMP fuse. 14 AWG is OK.

2) Get a fuse block with an extra fuse position and insert a 5 AMP fuse. That's what I did but I used 12 AWG just because I had some in my shop.

Best of success!

Even with 8 volts, it still runs great. I'm hoping this will make it run even better.

What does the 5th position in the panel do?
Is it for wiring the coil mod thru?
Since my coils don't have the lugs that WG describes, do I solder the new wires to the small nub on the outside of the coils instead? I know once I get into it, it will make more sense. I guess I am more mechanical than electrical:unsure:
Thanks

On my bike, I arranged the fuses as shown below with the 4th used for the coils and the 5th left as an unused spare. I tried to keep the same order as the OEM fuse box to facilitate inspection and troubleshooting.

1) Main 20 Amp Fuse
2) Head 10 Amp Light Fuse
3) Tail 10 Amp Light Fuse
4) Ignition Coil 5 Amp Fuse (New Used Position)
5) Spare (New Unused Position)

Spare slots are a good place to keep that spare fuse we all hope we will never have to use.

My new Dyna coils have screw down attachments meant for attaching lugs. So that's what I used.

I just don't remember what my original coils had as attachment method and I don't have them any more. Someone else will have to bail me out here.

Soldering "to nubs" sounds a bit rough but unless you are going to get new coils there isn't much else you can do. Solder real well and insulate with shrink tubing and or liquid tape. Some members have discovered this liquid tape stuff but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet.

Best of success.

Ok,
Thanks Bill

I did the coil mod today and it looks like everything went smoothly. Okay, maybe not totally smooth as I had to come back and check WG's instructions and correct what I had started. I just about wired the coils directly to the starter relay:blush:
Anyway, got it right after checking the instructions, and I could tell right away that there was improvement as the oil and neutral indicator lights were twice as bright as usual.
How much at the coils you ask? 12 VDC!!! , up from just over 8 volts.
Was getting dark in the shed, so I will finish some other wiring (horn), and install the new Halogen H/L tomorrow.
....completely impressed:)
The mounting was easy as I just used the same bolt as the regulator uses and faced it so the pigtail faces towards the rear.
BTW, I picked up an 30A tube fuse holder, instead of using the blade style. I am going to wait to use the blade one until I make the switch to the blade fuse panel.
I did find a 5 fuse panel, but it was bulky, and I decided to find one online instead.
Thanks to all that piped in on suggestions:)

rdgrnr wrote:

....I did find a 5 fuse panel, but it was bulky, and I decided to find one online instead.
Thanks to all that piped in on suggestions:)

I found the holy grail of fuseboxes: Part #: AF-CFB4; Desc:4 Circuit ATO/ATC Fuse Block from WiringProducts.com.

You can use the standard 3 and then the spare for the coil mod. I actually kept my coil mod fuse seperate for wiring route convenience, and I just use the extra one for carrying a spare fuse.

Biquetoast wrote:

rdgrnr wrote:

....I did find a 5 fuse panel, but it was bulky, and I decided to find one online instead.
Thanks to all that piped in on suggestions:)

I found the holy grail of fuseboxes: Part #: AF-CFB4; Desc:4 Circuit ATO/ATC Fuse Block from WiringProducts.com.

You can use the standard 3 and then the spare for the coil mod. I actually kept my coil mod fuse seperate for wiring route convenience, and I just use the extra one for carrying a spare fuse.

That one looks like it will work
Did you need to replace any other wiring when you switched over to that one?
Thanks

Just a thought here... since this is a Spade type contact you will want to look at your old Spade lugs very carefully.

If you see green try soldering them. If you can't solder them then there is probably to much oxidization hidden in there.

I ended up having to replace all my spade lugs with nice, shiny, new ones. IMHO, it's just one less thing to interrupt my riding. And yes, I did solder all lug to wire connects just-in-case.

Best of success.