TOPIC:

I know the subject sounds suspecious so I'll ask up front that anyone that is willing to provide the answers I need do so in a private message. I don't want this public because I would REALLY feel like shit if some turd used the info to steal someone's bike..
the problem is that I am on the last part of building my bike.check out my posts in the projects forum.

Link: This is a link to my project

I can't see if the carbs are right because my bike won't fire. I can jump the starter solonoid and spin the motor but don't know how to power up the coils so they will spark.
when I was welding on my frame is there a chance I fryed my electronics??
when I turn the key on I get the oil light [because there is no pressure]but the starter button does not engage the starter. tried to jump the solonoid with the key on but nothing..
I am so close to being finished. all the connectors look to be together but I also don't have headlight and the blinkers don't blink.
I have the shop manual but the schmatic is confusing.
I have power to the fuse panel and all the fuses are functional.
any one is the sacramento ,roseville northern california area good with electrical wanna make some $$$..
I'm stuck HELP MR. WIZARD....

It isn't much of a trick to hot wire the coils. Run a wire from your positive battery cable to the lug on the coils where the power wire attaches. Since you didn't choose to mention what type bike you have, I can't say for sure what color wire this will be except your ignition wires connected to the coils will be black and green. The OTHER light gauge wires are the coils. Don't leave the wire from the battery attached for too long when not running the bike as it WILL burn up the coils.


To power your coils, why not just do it right? You can read about the fairly simple Coil Repowering mod on our website under wg's Tech Stuff Index or just use some common sense and look for the reason your coils don't seem to be powered. First, measure the power at your coils by turning on the ignition key. Take a multimeter and place it in VDC in one of the lower scales. Put the POS probe on the lug on the coil where the power wire connects and the NEG probe on the frame or engine to ground.

With the key on, you should see about the same voltage as you see at the battery... a bike in good shape will show just over 12VDC. IF you get less... like 9V or 10V, do the coil repowering mod. If you get NOTHING, time to trouble shoot.

First, check your battery voltage. If you are getting 11-12 VDC with the key on, you likely have voltage also running to the main fuse. Out of the main fuse is a big thick WHITE wire going to the ignition switch. You should have 12VDC or so on this wire with the bike running at idle. If you don't, you have a problem with your main fuse; it is either blown or has a bad contact. Fix it and recheck.

OK. if you do have 12V on this wire shut the bike off and open your right hand switchgear. Note you have a wire coming into the switchgear from the ignition switch and connectint to the KILL SWITCH. Take your multimeter probe, switch the ignition ON an see if you have 12VDC on this wire. I can't recall the wire color. If you don't have any voltage on this wire coming INTO the kill switch, then the ignition switch is BAD or the wire is broken. While it is possible to disassemble and clean an ignition switch, given your lack of mechanical savvy, I would replace the switch. Z1Enterprises.com carries an inexpensive replacement. The downside is that you will have to keep the original key for locking the steering head or using the helmet lock, etc. If you have power at the kill switch move on...

OK... there is a wire coming off the kill switch... actually two wires with one going to the start button (black) and the other going to your coils. This wire is normally yellow/red on the older Z1/KZ900 models... it may be yellow/red but may be just red on later models. Anyway, it runs out of the switch gear and goes through a big connector on your frame neck.

You can check to see if power is getting to this connector by opening the connector up and turning on your ignition. Make sure the kill switch is in the RUN position. Open the connector and find the pin associated with the coil power wire on the switch gear side. Put your POS mutlimeter probe on this pin and the neg on a frame or engine ground. With the key in the on position, you should see about 12VDC here. If you have less, do the COIL REPOWER mod and if you have nothing, the kill switch is the likely culprit.

You may have to disassemble the kill switch. Most of the time, when they don't work, it is because the red top part is too loose and these aren't able to make a good connection. Clean the brass plates and grease them with dielectric grease. Make sure you don't lose the little bb and spring that rides in a detent (this is what makes the kill switch click into position). You may need to make a shim to tighten the upper red knob. Anyway, the switch needs fixing if it isn't making contact.

Now, after fixing the kill switch, check for power on that pin again at the connector and if you find power, clean the pins on the connector using electrical contact cleaner (any autoparts store) and dab with pins with dielectric grease. The wires OUT of the connector drop out of the wiring harness above your cylinder head and end in a dual-out connector. Other wires plug into this connector and go to the coils. Check and clean this connection and make sure the power wires are connected to the coils. They will be yellow/red OR red OR pink. Check for voltage at the coils.