TOPIC:

Ok Folks,

This is in ref. to a 1978 KZ 650 B2.

I went ahead and changed my glass fuses with a new blade fuse box. I did what Vic44139 stated to do in his how to thread. I snipped the old connections and got a 4 slot fuse box. I am using a 20 amp auto reset circuit breaker for the main and two 10 amp fuses for the other and have a slot left over for future use. I also replaced my voltage regulator with a new one from Z1 ent. The only thing I did different from the instructions is I left the set of 4 connectors that were all attached connected instead of snipping them and seperating them before inserting them into the base of the fuse box. They create one side of the connection. ] The other four were already seperate and I inserted them one at a time. I even soldered them all so I couldn't inadvertantly pull the wires out. I reconnected the batt and now the ignition appears to be straight wired? It is on and will crank without the key and in the off position. I made sure the of the color of wires before I removed the old. blue to blue, white to white and pink to brown. What did I miss?. I don't want to drag this to the repair shop over something obvious, but I am not an electrical guru. I have attached pics to help with the explanation.

thanks in advance.

Just another pic to show what I did.

I don't have my manual handy right now, so I can't tell you which wire is the problem. But, the way you have it wired now all of the fuses have power all the time. The two on the right in the pic that show the wires should only have power when the key is on. if the solid white wire goes to the ignition switch you need to cut the strip that feeds the other 2 fuses. And you should probably cut the strip between the other 2 fuses too so they are seperate circuits.

Yes I agree you have created one circuit for them all. They are all powered no mater of the key position. If you know which is your key on wire you can separate that one but I would do them all.

I recall on mine there is a 20A "main feed" wire that routes through the largest fuse, goes up to the ginition switch, and then back down to the fuse box to feed the two smaller "secondary circuits" of about 10A each on my bike. One of the two wires for the 20A circuit is "always hot" because it is on the input side of the ignition switch, the other wire is the "switched 12V" used to feed the rest of the electrical system.

If you somehow got the two leads for the 20A circuit reversed in the vicinity of the fuse box, I'll wager that would hard wire the +12V power source directly to the two secondary circuits. The ignition switch would be bypassed.

Those are the two wires I would be looking for.

Snip the connections between the white, blue and red/blue. Jeesh, you have ONE big connection the way you have it wired. Trust me, been there, done that bwhahahaha IT WON'T WORK LIKE THAT ROB!

Thank you very much. I wondered about that when I did it, but didn't think it through long enough i guess. I really appreciate everyones guidance. I will let you know how it turns out.

Great forum. Love the info.

Rob

Trust me, it works better to have separate circuits than one big electrical free for all! I did the same thing the first time I used one of those auto parts store fuse blocks and got the same results hehe

wiredgeorge wrote:

Trust me, it works better to have separate circuits than one big electrical free for all! I did the same thing the first time I used one of those auto parts store fuse blocks and got the same results hehe

Good eye, I didn't realize that bottom row was all one piece of copper.... that would tend to hard wire them together.

Didn't need to even see the pic... the symptoms sounded sooooo familiar and just after install of the fuse block. The upgrade only takes a little effort and is sure sounder than that old fuse box with the near-impossible to find glass fuses in it.