TOPIC:

The short story is that I did the WG coil mod in addition to some other things on the bike and when I put it back together I have zero spark.

Thanks to Bill in the "Another reason to do the coil Mod anyway" thread, I know that the WG mod was done correctly and is not causing the problem.

So, I started going through the troubleshooting steps in the FSM for ignition trouble. I did all of them that I could do with a multimeter. I had to skip the ones that required the Electrotester because I don't have one.

The pick up coil resistance test should result in a reading between 360~540 Ohms when connected to the leads.

The readings are within tolerances. One is 406 & the other is 424 Ohms. I concluded the pick up coils are good.

Next test was the Wiring Inspection test where you find out what the voltages are at the IC Igniter leads & Pick-Up Coil leads. The negative is connected to ground and the positive is put on the various wires. (This is done while the ignition & run switch are both ON.)

According to the FSM I should have full battery voltage on the 4-pin connector for the ignition coils at the Yellow/Red, Black, or Green wires.

The reading came out correct for Black and Green showing full batter voltage. The other two connections show 3.2 mV. But that makes sense because I did the WG Coil Mod and am now bypassing the Yellow/Red wire anyway...right?

At the 4pin connector for the pick-up coils I should have between 0.5~1.0 V on the Black, Blue, Yellow, or Red.

I got a reading of 3.8 mV (small 'm') at each of those connections. 3.8mV would = 0.38V, correct? If so, there is a possible problem at this point since it is 0.12V lower than the minimum required reading.

The last test I could do was the IC Igniter Resistance test. For this test, I disconnected both of the above 4 pin connectors. Again, according to the FSM I should get the following:

At the 4-pin connector for the ignition coils I should get an infinity reading when Black/Yellow is on + and Black, Green is on - when the meter Range is set to 1 k Ohm. I get an infinity reading (O.F) so I know this is good.

The remaining tests on the ignition coil connector are supposed to be in the 100 Ohm range and show readings between 200~700 Ohms depending on which of the 3 combinations you are doing. For two of these readings I get 0.986 k (Ohms 986 Ohms) which is significantly higher than tolerances. and the other two I get a reading of O.F (Overflow). Seems like a problem...

I then did the required test at the 4-pin connector for the pick-up coils. The Meter Range is supposed to be in the k Ohm range and for each test I should show a reading of between 20~45 k Ohms depending on the combination.

For both of these I get a reading of O.F (Overflow). Again, significantly higher than tolerances. So, it looks like an IC Igniter problem. Could this possibly explain the low voltages I saw when checking the pick-up coil voltage earlier?

So, bad IC Igniter? I don't want to buy another one just to find out I'm wrong so can anyone confirm this for me? Do these things go bad frequently or is it just a fluke that mine did?

Thanks for reading this beast of a post.

EDIT: New info

Post edited by: Little B, at: 2008/02/17 19:01

The pickups are ok.

The description sounds like a wiring error. If the coils have 12v on the black and green wires, and they have nothing on the yellow/red wires, where are the green and black wires getting the power? That's a problem. Start retracing the wiring to the coils.

If you meant the yellow/red wire to the IC igniter, then that's a problem. You are not getting power to the igniter. That may have happened during the relay mod. Check that first.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2008/02/17 19:02

loudhvx wrote:

If the coils have 12v on the black and green wires, and they have nothing on the yellow/red wires, where are the green and black wires getting the power?

Thanks for the reply loudhvx. According to the FSM I'm supposed to have Battery Voltage on the Black, Green & Yellow/Red wires. Because of the WG coil mod, I have it only on the Black & Green.

Also, I d/led the manual for my multimeter and figured out how to take measurements and read it properly. I've updated my first post with the correct information. Maybe that will help some.

Something is wrong, then, because the black and green wires get power from the coils which gets power from the yellow/red wires. But if you are talking about the yellow/red wire on the igniter, then that's what's missing power.

loudhvx wrote:

the black and green wires get power from the coils which gets power from the yellow/red wires.

This is true when the bike is wired as it was from the factory. However, the WG coil mod replaces the normal yellow/red wire(s) that powers the coils. So it makes sense that they have battery voltage.

Little B wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

the black and green wires get power from the coils which gets power from the yellow/red wires.

This is true when the bike is wired as it was from the factory. However, the WG coil mod replaces the normal yellow/red wire(s) that powers the coils. So it makes sense that they have battery voltage.

The green and black wires from the coils to the igniter should never be powered directly. If that's the case, that is wrong.

The relay is meant to provide power to the coils via the yellow/red wire. The green and black wires are the ground wires for the coils. The green and black wires are meant to be switched on and off by the igniter. If they are powered on all the time, they will never allow a spark to occur.

If the motor is not running, the green and black wires will have 12v on them because they are not switched to ground by the igniter at that time. In order to run, the igniter starts switching the green and black wires to ground in sequence.

My point is, there should be no power on the green and black wires if the coils are not getting powered. Since you say there is no voltage on the yellow/red wire to the coils, there should be no power on the green and black wires. If there is, as you say, then there is something wrong.

We can't determine if the igniter is bad, yet, because right now there is a wiring problem.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2008/02/17 19:47

loudhvx wrote:

My point is, there should be no power on the green and black wires if the coils are not getting powered. Since you say there is no voltage on the yellow/red wire to the coils, there should be no power on the green and black wires. If there is, as you say, then there is something wrong.

We can't determine if the igniter is bad, yet, because right now there is a wiring problem.<br><br>Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2008/02/17 19:47

OK. I guess I wasn't very clear before. My apologies. The green and black wires have no power when the bike is powered off and/or the kill switch is in the off position.

The green and black wires only have battery voltage when the ignition is turned on and the kill switch is in the run position.

I understand, but I meant when the bike is running, the green and black wires will get switched on and off to ground.

Basically, you have to figure out why the yellow/red wire is not getting power. Which drawing are you working from, exactly? There are several floating around, and there are several different versions of the relay mod. I think WG has a drawing specifically for the electronic ignition KZ's.

loudhvx wrote:

I understand, but I meant when the bike is running, the green and black wires will get switched on and off to ground.

Basically, you have to figure out why the yellow/red wire is not getting power. Which drawing are you working from, exactly? There are several floating around, and there are several different versions of the relay mod. I think WG has a drawing specifically for the electronic ignition KZ's.

The bike isn't running (no spark) so I can't test to see if it is switching on and off to ground. The red wire from the relay to the coils does have full power with the ignition & kill switch in the on position.

I'm using the Inline79 version of the relay mod. I also grounded 87a. Here is the link . About the 8th post down.

I recommend leaving 87a open. Do not ground it. It needs no ground and may only lead to confusion or damage during testing.

It should look like this (incorporating Bill's contact scheme):
(the 3.0 ohms are if you are using Dyna coils)


Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2008/02/17 21:56

Just so I'm clear, are you saying that I'm supposed to have the wire that goes to the coils also going to the yellow/red wire on the IC igniter?

I am not using a dyna s. Stock ignition system except for the WG coil mod.

I admit that I'm confused as that connection isn't shown in the original diagrams...even on WG's original diagram.

Well it's an option. Either the relay can power the igniter or the original yellow/red wire can power the igniter, but either way, you need to run power to the igniter.

My picture is drawn with Dyna Coils, but a regular KZ igniter, not a Dyna S. On WG's site I believe it's drawn for a Dyna S.