TOPIC:

Almost too simple/obvious a fix to warrant a post, but I was very happy with the results and wanted to share anyhow.

I just recently added hand warmers to my bike.

I have already re-core wired the bike and added higher output lamps and such. So I thought I better not add more current to an (I'm assuming erring towards caution) already overloaded ignition switch.

Therefore I wired the warmers directly to the battery, fused of course, as to not force more current through the key switch.

Problem is obvious, I have killed my battery four times already. It is too easy for the switch to be forgotten or bumped or messed with and such.

I found a small 20$ aftermarket key switch that I attached to my handlebars. The switch has Three positions; Off, Ignition and Accessory. This matches conveniently to Off, High heat and Low heat. I needed only to trade wires from the toggle switch to the key switch.

Now I can have heat by keying in the second key and can't leave the heat on with out leaving my keys with the bike.

Again, DUH, but I did not know that these switches existed.

Post edited by: Qdude, at: 2008/02/04 15:32

Qdude wrote:

Almost too simple/obvious a fix to warrant a post, but I was very happy with the results and wanted to share anyhow.

I just recently added hand warmers to my bike.

I have already re-core wired the bike and added higher output lamps and such. So I thought I better not add more current to an (I'm assuming erring towards caution) already overloaded ignition switch.

Therefore I wired the warmers directly to the battery, fused of course, as to not force more current through the key switch.

Problem is obvious, I have killed my battery four times already. It is too easy for the switch to be forgotten or bumped or messed with and such.

I found a small 20$ aftermarket key switch that I attached to my handlebars. The switch has Three positions; Off, Ignition and Accessory. This matches conveniently to Off, High heat and Low heat. I needed only to trade wires from the toggle switch to the key switch.

Now I can have heat by keying in the second key and can't leave the heat on with out leaving my keys with the bike.

Again, DUH, but I did not know that these switches existed.<br><br>Post edited by: Qdude, at: 2008/02/04 15:32

You could also use a relay. Inside the headlight there is at least one unused switched 12v wire. This can switch a relay which gets fused power directly from the battery - a la wg'd coil mod.

this way there's only one key in use.

Sam

Sam, The relay isn't the only thing needed... he will still need a switch to turn on the heat to the grips. I doubt he will want those grips all warmed up in the summer. The best way to do this was suggested by qdude's post... I would replace the factory fuse box... I would have a separate circuit for the hand warmers and the key to choosing the wiring and connectors would be the wattage of that device. I would use a relay on the circuit and an inline switch mounted up on the bars... if you can't remember to shut off the power to the grips, at least, the grips won't stay powered when the bike is shut off... I suspect you would remember to turn off the power to the heating elements in the summer kind of naturally... I would just do some very careful computing on the draw as those heating elements are likely too much for a KZ unless you run them ONLY when going over 3-4K or wherever the bike is making max AC voltage.

Samwell wrote:

Qdude wrote:

Almost too simple/obvious a fix to warrant a post, but I was very happy with the results and wanted to share anyhow.

I just recently added hand warmers to my bike.

I have already re-core wired the bike and added higher output lamps and such. So I thought I better not add more current to an (I'm assuming erring towards caution) already overloaded ignition switch.

Therefore I wired the warmers directly to the battery, fused of course, as to not force more current through the key switch.

Problem is obvious, I have killed my battery four times already. It is too easy for the switch to be forgotten or bumped or messed with and such.

I found a small 20$ aftermarket key switch that I attached to my handlebars. The switch has Three positions; Off, Ignition and Accessory. This matches conveniently to Off, High heat and Low heat. I needed only to trade wires from the toggle switch to the key switch.

Now I can have heat by keying in the second key and can't leave the heat on with out leaving my keys with the bike.

Again, DUH, but I did not know that these switches existed.<br><br>Post edited by: Qdude, at: 2008/02/04 15:32

You could also use a relay. Inside the headlight there is at least one unused switched 12v wire. This can switch a relay which gets fused power directly from the battery - a la wg'd coil mod.

this way there's only one key in use.

Sam

Ditto on the relay, but you can use virtually any switched +12V wire coming off the ignition switch to fire the primary side of the relay.

wiredgeorge wrote:

Sam, The relay isn't the only thing needed... he will still need a switch to turn on the heat to the grips. I doubt he will want those grips all warmed up in the summer. The best way to do this was suggested by qdude's post... I would replace the factory fuse box... I would have a separate circuit for the hand warmers and the key to choosing the wiring and connectors would be the wattage of that device. I would use a relay on the circuit and an inline switch mounted up on the bars... if you can't remember to shut off the power to the grips, at least, the grips won't stay powered when the bike is shut off... I suspect you would remember to turn off the power to the heating elements in the summer kind of naturally... I would just do some very careful computing on the draw as those heating elements are likely too much for a KZ unless you run them ONLY when going over 3-4K or wherever the bike is making max AC voltage.

It would be really easy to cook up an automatic curcuit to fire the relay that runs the hand warmers based on ambieht temperature. National Semi makes some cheap and accurate temp sensors that are accurate to 1F (check out the LM34). Just use one of those to sense the air temp and fire the relay anytime it is under maybe 60F. Would only take a logic gate and one transistor.

www.national.com/JS/searchDocument.do?textfield=LM34

Intriguing string of posts, excellent ideas indeed.

Yes, the factory fuse box now resides on my desk and I've kept a couple of those old bar type fuses just to laugh at every once in a while.

It is good to have the switch available to turn the heat off. That way I can switch it off when not needed. I really only use it while on the free-way in mid thirty degree weather.

So the draw is such that I might be deep cycling my battery during low Rev. riding? I shall take that into account and use the heat more sparingly.

The automatic circuit was fascinating. How to account for wind-chill though?

Till soon all!