TOPIC:

So i asked for b7es spark plugs but got br7es.. This won't work? or will it?

The "r" just stands for resistor. Unless someone corrects me it won't make any differance.

Like Bluemeanie said, running an resistor "R" plug in your bike is ok, if you don't mind spending the extra money ($1 more each on average) for them.

Out of curiousty though, why are you running a B7ES (hotter) plug instead of the original B8ES (standard) plug?

someone told me that I should be running b7.... someone else said b8 but I thought since it's freezing here I would go hotter.
I don't have a parts manual so I just went with that little bit-o-logic, will it make much of a difference? Could I do damage?

Not really but the heat range you use is determined by modifications to bike and how hard you ride it. Outside temp makes no difference. Look in your owners manual or decal under seat for proper plug #. This is my (been mech for 30 years) opinon, but here is an interesting chat about this subject!

choosing the right plug

Post edited by: Bluemeanie, at: 2008/01/27 09:08

So you disagree with the advice in this post to run hotter plugs in the winter? I'd really rather not take these plugs back into town if it won't affect things. As far as the mods, I really don't know what they would affect (colder or hotter) It's got four air pods and a 4-1 exhaust

Granted, I been an auto mechanic as opposed to bike mechanic but you don't see plug change's in cars that run in extremly cold or hot climats. My understanding is that when major modifications have been made to an engine such as big bore kit, higher compression pistons,porting, larger cams and valves, etc, such major changes dictate a different plug heat range. In cases of bikes like ours which other than a pipe or pods they are still fairly stock, riding at high speeds/RPM's for extended periods of time would also dictate a different heat range. In answer to your question I guess I do disagree. On a side note, if it's so cold that MAYBE a different heat range is required for bike to run properly then I think that person is insane riding in those temps.

Good call, I'll just clean my plugs with some starter fluid and burn it off with a lighter.... I don't feel like going back to town to get new plugs so I'll just clean them and hope they work for a bit

My manual for 78 KC650C2 says B7ES is standard and to run B8ES if you do more high-speed riding.

Here in Canada I can't seem to get B7ES plugs, only the BR7ES. Combined with Resistor Plug Caps, it's a bit of a waste of energy...

My experience has been that 'R' series plugs foul faster and don't provide the same quality of spark that the standard series does. I'd like to find a set of ND X24 es-u plugs to try. I used to nick the used ND's out of my Dad's Toyota pickup for my oil burning Honda XR 80 when I was young. Worked loads better than the NoGoodKind. For those whom may be interested, I believe a B7es converts to a W21 es-u.

My 2 sense.

I think if you are running a electronic ignition, the resistor plugs are needed, if you have points, non resistor plugs, I dont know for sure if it really makes a big diff, but thats all I know

The resistance is mostly (if not totally) to reduce radio interference. The older KZ electronic ignitions don't seem to be bothered by the interference much. As Inline79 mentioned, you just waste a little spark energy if you have more than one reistor item in the circuit. You only need resistor plugr OR resistor caps Or resistor wires. More than one of the above just wastes more energy (a good running, well designed motor isn't affected by spark energy noticeably). And some people do without any resistor. (I think it's outlawed in some racing applications since the RF can mess up some on-board computers.)