TOPIC:

My KZ1000P cuts out when I put the bike in gear and release the clutch.

I suspect the side-stand safety circuit ?

I hard-wired the 2 micro-switch wires together just above the side-stand but it made no difference. I know the spark is being killed when I release the clutch and still think the problem is somewhere on this circuit.

Next, I hard-wired +12V from the battery to each of the 2 coils and this made no difference ?

I have no idea where to go from hear because the wiring diagram I have does not even show the side-stand circuit ?

Any idea's greatly appreciated. Thanks KZer's

Are you sure it's when you release the clutch and not when you come out of neutral?

The clutch switch is usually just for the starter.

The neutral-switch works with the side-stand switch circuit.

(I'm not really well versed on the P models.)

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/10/28 02:52

The year of manufacture is 1994.

I can select any gear 1 to 5 and the engin will rev perfect once the clutch is held in. This is why I think the problem is not when I come out of neutral ?

Thanks for the advise.

I probably have the same diagram you have, but there is an error on the clutch switch circuit. I put a correction on it. The switch only goes to the starter relay. It should not go to the ignitor.

home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/KZ1000police.gif

As you said, the diagram doesn't show the sidestand switch.

If it's in neutral, can you let go of the clutch and keep it running?

Can you hard wire the ignitor the same way you did the coils? If you have the later ignitor I guess you probably have more wires to it than the diagram shows.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/10/28 13:05

Once the bike is in neutral, I can release the clutch an d it has no effect on the engin - everything goes like a bird. Releasing the clutch will only cut the engin if the bike is in gear.

Your ignitor suggestion is good but my wiring diagram does not correspond to my 1994 model bike - I have more wires than the wiring diagram shows ?

I have eliminated the clutch interlock micro-switch because the bike starts fine when the clutch is engaged.

Thanks for your idea's !

Regards,
The Fox

Yeah, I would just bypass the clutch switch.

If it's been like that since you got the bike, it's probably a mis-wire someone did.

I am planning to connect +12v to the Black-Yellow wire on the ignitor and see if it solves the problem. Is it safe to do so?

Black/yellow is usually ground on KZ's.

I just looked at the wiring diagram Lou linked, and the red wire provides power to the igniter, and it provided power to the siren originally. I wonder if someone messed it up when they removed the siren?

The wiring diagram shows eight wires connecting to the igniter. Yours has more than that?

If you reinstall the original power wires to the coils while leaving your add on wire hooked up, you should be powering the igniter also. The original red wire powered the igniter and the coils.

If someone has butchered the wiring in the past, all bets are off

Post edited by: steell, at: 2007/10/28 22:59

I believe the diagram I posted is an early 80's bike, by the look of the ignitor wiring.

But do not connect 12v to the blk/yel wire. Like Steell said, it's probably ground, and you may melt something.

You really should get the correct diagram before re-wiring the ignitor power.

On your clutch perch is a switch. The switch has a pin that is depressed that allows contact. The pin on your switch isn't allowing contact when the clutch lever is released. There is a black wire coming off your kill switch and it loops over to this switch and then back. In order for power to get through the kill switch to the coils the loop must be closed by the pin being depressed on the little switch. It ain't. The easiest way to fix the problem is to disable the loop by just jumping from one side to the other and cutting out the switch part. If you find the switch isn't working, you can steal a switch from many other models as I think they are mostly all the same. The black/yellow to hot test is a bad idea.

Wiredgeorge - you were exactly correct !!. Please explain to a lessser mortal why you are correct - the clutch interlock is a two wire system and it was working perfect to enable/disable the starter - so all is OK - but apparantly not ????

I know youy fix is correct but I still don't understand and am somewhat frustrated ?

A kind word to Loudhvx and Steell for your generous advise which was very helpful at low moments.

PS: Afer I installed Wiredgeorge's fix, took a 15 mile hike and stayed just shy of the red at 7500rpm in the 1 to 4 only, stayed out of 5 for low altitude reasons. Emma returns to half the number of wheels after a sad 29 year transfer to 4 wheels. I had forgotten but now I remember - just hearing that snapping and creaking sound of the metal as she gently cools after the test run - good to be alive !!!!

Thanks KZer's for your help and I want to return the favour if I can ?

Post edited by: Emma, at: 2007/10/30 14:53