TOPIC:

when i turn the turn signals on they do not blink, its just a solid light from them.

when i turn the headlight on all 4 turn signals light as well. with the headlight on, when i put a turn signal on one side stays lit and the other goes dark...

The headlight (an old one, that may have just been on its last legs) blew after about 20 seconds of being lit.

As of right not the tail light is not mounted, but i don't know how that could lead to any of these problems.

Where should i start looking to clean up these problems?? any help would be great!!

Post edited by: hardr0ck68, at: 2007/10/19 19:30

I'd start by unplugging all the connectors and looking for anything like corrosion. Disconnect the battery and use a good electrical contact cleaner with a stainless steel wire brush.

I pretty much had similar problems with a Voyager last month. I went so far as to purchase a new flasher ( $47.00) only to find that the problem was the connector for the ignition switch.

kzcsi

this may be a guess, but check to see if all the bulbs are in correct, I chased a problem on a car in high school that ended up being a bulb installed wrong

hardr0ck68 wrote:

when i turn the turn signals on they do not blink, its just a solid light from them.

when i turn the headlight on all 4 turn signals light as well. with the headlight on, when i put a turn signal on one side stays lit and the other goes dark...

The headlight (an old one, that may have just been on its last legs) blew after about 20 seconds of being lit.

As of right not the tail light is not mounted, but i don't know how that could lead to any of these problems.

Where should i start looking to clean up these problems?? any help would be great!!<br><br>Post edited by: hardr0ck68, at: 2007/10/19 19:30

Since I'm new to this forum, I feel compelled to explain that nothing I say is KZ experience but I have a lot of experience in restoring vintage autos.

The easiest way to proceed is to work backwards from each bulb and here's what I normally do:

- first test each bulb itself
- test each bulb-holder with a known bulb
- test each light from the wire harness connecting point (where each light "pod" is connected to the main wire loom)
- test all switching with a multimeter out of circuit
- Finally test each circuit with switch installed

Much of this (if not all of it) is best done with a spare battery and some home made test leads. I made my own extended test leads with two alligator clips (one at each end) on a strand of speaker wire (ie: wire guage sufficient for current loading).

Given your description, it sounds like you have a short in the loom somewhere because you said all four signals light-up when headlight is turned on. This may just be some wires are chaffed and touching each other or it could potentially be a bad switch (ie: your left forward control).

Very often, grounding is a problem but this usually results in poor performance as opposed to incorrect performance (ie: weak/dim/intermittent lighting instead of headlight=turn signal).

By working backwards from the bulbs themselves and where possible out of ciruit you can isolate each "leg" of your lighting and thereby provide you with some sanity-checking - or "I KNOW the signal pod works by itself, so it's not it but when connected to the main loom, it suffers" - thus, the problem can be traced to something else.

Lastly, and I'm only suggesting this because of a recent experience on my own KZ440 - the tail light bulb being "not installed yet" would result in a dash light coming on - brake light warning on my bike lights when bulb is dead or missing. If we were to ASSume that there was a possible short inside your headlight/guage cluster, this dash light coming on could potentially be causing other circuits to light-up if bare wires were somehow able to cross-circuit or short due to exposed wire leads et cetera.

HTH