TOPIC:

jjdwoodman wrote:

IIRC the Ford specs for regulators is 13.4 to 14.0.

I also don't think my 78 F250 had the S wire hooked up and it still charged. It's been a while though, so I'm not completely sure on that. I'll try to research that point though, (there's an 84 in the yard right now) and get back to let you know.

I believe you are correct. See above.

newbikekiller wrote:

+Firstly I have already removed the regulator and rectifier and examined the unit.I identified the three stator wires and two connections for the field coil, these are the only connections remaining with the voltage regulator and rectifier removed. I have also noted that the (-) output of the field coil is switched from the stock regulator.

Ok good, so the alternator can work with the reg and rec removed?

newbikekiller wrote:

+DC resistance of the field coil - can I simply place on ohmmeter across the two connections for the carbon brushes while the carbon brushes are connected to the alternator? If this is higher than that of the Ford system I should be OK, right? Seeing as the ford alternator likely outputs more, wouldn't it's field coil probably have less resistance? I will check this value just to make sure, however.

Yes to all of the above questions, with only a slight chance of uncertainty on the Ford field being lower resistance. I would assume it is lower, but not certain.

newbikekiller wrote:

+In regards to the high voltage. Yes this is something I considered. Well I might be up to 1v off (the original design charges from 13.5-14.5v I might see as high as 15.5v), but I suspect that the $60 optima battery the previous owner will be able to handle it. Even if it fries it's not a big deal, I'm more worried about my ignition components getting damaged in the process. I'll take a final voltage reading when I'm done and see how it works out.

I really doubt the extra volt would damage anything, but would only bubble the water out of the battery sooner. If it's too high, there are some stop gap measures you could use to reduce the charging voltage to the battery.

newbikekiller wrote:

+The Negative end of the field coil WAS regulated by the voltage regulator. Now I figure, and correct me if I'm wrong, if I get a voltage regulator that outputs (+) (which I have) I can simply ground the other end of the field coil and hook it up like that. I mean, presumably its just a regular coil (like the kind I learned about in Physics Class) and it doesn't care what end is switched just that it's getting current in the right direction - which I will ensure.

Yes, that is correct, as long as the field coil is completely isolated. It most likely is, since the chassis of the alternator will most likely be grounded, the field coil wires would have had to been isolated from the chassis.

The multiple configurations would explain some of the contradictions in the diagrams I looked at (there are still some obvious errors in at least one of the diagrams, but shouldn't affect this project).

Well it seems you are well on your way. I assume you will be making the rectifier from my site? You probably also came across the excited-field regulator using Radio Shack parts, but if you can get the Ford regulator for $10 then the homemade one would probably cost more.

If you get this working, it would be great news for the 77 KZ650 guys and the KZ400 guys!

I will be making the rectifier from your site.
Thursday will tell whether or not this will work.

As a side note:
I'm not confident enough to make the homemade regulator circuit on your site. I would have given it a go anyway but those parts are no longer available solely from Radioshack (even online they don't have 5A diodes let alone in the crappy store which has practically nothing) which means I would have to source from two different vendors. Shipping costs, outrageous component prices, and the high likelihood of me fudging up the circuit scarred me away from making it myself.

This has the advantage of low cost, high replaceability (almost every auto parts store has Ford Voltage regulators). And although this part has probably never been tested in my particular application before, it has been through the wringer year after year in a laundry list of Fords.

No more 5A diodes? That sucks.
Well I've been toying with the idea of redesigning it without the diodes anyway.
I guess it's just more incentive now.

Good luck on the Ford reg!

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/10/02 12:06