TOPIC:

My battery has been farting out so i figured theres a charging problem out came the manual and this is what i did.

i got a multimeter and did the tests listed in my manual but I am still confused and I am looking for a professional (kz rider) opinion.

Test one: Voltage of bike while running.
@2000rpm = 12.3V
@5000rpm = 12.5V

Test two: Alternator output (set on AC 200v)
Each connection with the yellow wires was between 40-50ohms

Test three: Alternator stator resistence (on 200ohm)
between the yellow wires: 0.7 - 0.8ohms
(on 2000k ohm)ground and each yellow was about -15ohms.
(there was a negative dash symbol on the meter, is that even possible?)

Test four: regulator/rectifier resistence (200k ohm)
between RW wire and Y wires: -77.5
between B/Y wire and Y wires: -11.8

reverse RW+Y : 1
B/Y+Y: 15.5



HELP. these numbers didn't really make sense as i was comparing them with my manual. I used a digital multi-tester for the tests. I set the meter on what i thought to be the right testing level.

and just my luck its like 90 degrees out and humid.

I DONT WANT A PICKLE!!!!!!

squints wrote:

Test two: Alternator output (set on AC 200v)
Each connection with the yellow wires was between 40-50ohms

How did you do this test?
Were the wires connected to anything?
Was the bike running?
How did you get ohm readings while measuring AC voltage?

squints wrote:

Test three: Alternator stator resistence (on 200ohm)
between the yellow wires: 0.7 - 0.8ohms
(on 2000k ohm)ground and each yellow was about -15ohms.
(there was a negative dash symbol on the meter, is that even possible?)

To do this test, the bike had to be not running, and the yellow wires had to be disconnected from the reg/rec.

squints wrote:

Test four: regulator/rectifier resistence (200k ohm)
between RW wire and Y wires: -77.5
between B/Y wire and Y wires: -11.8

reverse RW+Y : 1
B/Y+Y: 15.5

If you are getting negative resistance readings, that implies you had power on it. Ohm readings should be done with all the power turned off.

If you hook up a charger to the battey will the bike start? Did you troubleshoot other possiblities before testing the rect/reg? Rect/reg would only go bad because either it was overloaded (Wrong size fuse) or less likely age.

kzzican-what other possibilities are there? I tested everything in the alternator testing section of my manual.

loudhvx- for test 2, the bike was on and i didnt mean to write ohms. i simply unplugged the red 6 pole connection and tested the three yellow wires. The unit was still on the bike.
test 3: the bike was off and i just unplugged the 6pole connection and tested the wires again.
test 4: the bike was off, i think... actually it was on and draining my battery at the time.

What more can i do? Any better way to test these parts? Thanks

On test two, that means you measured 40 to 50 volts AC on the yellow wires, I take it?

If so what RPM was that at? If it was at idle, I'd say the alternator is good.

Right now, if I had to guess, I'd say it was the reg/rec, but it would only be a guess. There are more elaborate tests you can do, but they are more involved.

By the way, have you measured the DC voltage output at the red wire on the reg/rec (while running)? It should be the same voltage as on the battery positive (using the battery ground as the negative connection on the meter). If not, then there may be a wiring issue.

yes that was at idle.

no didnt do the redwhite wre test. so you say while running the voltage should the same as the battery voltage at the redwhite wire, interesting, i'll check tonight.