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HELP regulator woes 77650 03 Aug 2007 14:01 #161594

  • Qdude
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Replacing my entire electrical system, one broken element at a time, I now suspect my regulator is tits up.

My system was up around 17 volts last night, and my low beam no longer works. Presumably burned out due to excessive voltage.

Now the center wire on the regulator (from the stator to which I hooked up an external voltmeter) shows intermitent power, and at other times is dead.

The regulator itself, is the old manual breaker type with a center armature contact poised between two terminal contact points. These, I imagine, channel power
into the charging system from one position
(up, away from the bike)
or into the ground, away from the charging system from the other position
(down, closed arm towards the bike).

When the key is off, the arm is up, in the charging configuration.
When the key in switched to on, there is an audible click as the arm snaps to down, or the not charging position.

Now it seems to be stuck there in the no charging position, where it had been stuck in the charging position last night.

I honk my horn to test the voltage of my system, and it is hit and miss right now. Sometimes a strong blast, other times a pitiful flacid attempt at a honk.

Seems like a broken wire connection, broken wire, or bad regulator.

I have been messing with the rested position of the arm by bending tabs and such, as this had been a quick fix in the past. I think that I may have put it way out of adjustment.

I dont have my voltmeter or manual with me right now, they are 25 miles away and I am reluctant to go on the highway right now.

What is the normal action of the arm, key off, on.

I am ordering another regulator online now.
Is there a chance that I did not need to, and perhaps I should check for problems elsewhere.

This occured right after I degreased my engine and painted it. Pressure washing, caustic chemical, wire jostling or incompetance on my part all factor in.

Any suggestions as to where to go from here experts?

As always, help greatly appreciated, and expected :0..

Q

Post edited by: Qdude, at: 2007/08/03 17:02
77 KZ 650 C1.
77 KZ 650 C1.
Crashed-Repaired, Pods, Kerker pipe, re-wired core bundle, lamp upgraded, homemade rectifier, solid state regulator , Dyna-s ignition, repainted, slightly modified, year-round commuter
Honda Metro 85 mpg Scooter. Dont laugh I will throw it at you

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HELP regulator woes 77650 03 Aug 2007 19:09 #161637

  • loudhvx
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Qdude wrote:

Replacing my entire electrical system, one broken element at a time, I now suspect my regulator is tits up.

My system was up around 17 volts last night, and my low beam no longer works. Presumably burned out due to excessive voltage.

Now the center wire on the regulator (from the stator to which I hooked up an external voltmeter) shows intermitent power, and at other times is dead.

If the middle wire is the green wire, it should behave that way. The green wire goes to the field-coil, not the stator, by the way.


Qdude wrote:

The regulator itself, is the old manual breaker type with a center armature contact poised between two terminal contact points. These, I imagine, channel power
into the charging system from one position
(up, away from the bike)
or into the ground, away from the charging system from the other position
(down, closed arm towards the bike).

Your 1977 KZ650 alternator (which is made up of the stator, field-coil, and rotor-pole-inverter) is unique from all other KZ650 years. Your regulator does not regulate the stator output, like on all other year KZ650's, but it regulates the field-coil's input. The strength of the electromagnetic field-coil determines the output power from the stator. So the regulator "regulates" by controlling the power to the field coil through the green wire. That is what the relay is doing.

(On other year KZ650's the field is provided by a permanent magnet and the regulator just burns off the extra power from the stator.)


Qdude wrote:

When the key is off, the arm is up, in the charging configuration.
When the key in switched to on, there is an audible click as the arm snaps to down, or the not charging position.



Qdude wrote:

Now it seems to be stuck there in the no charging position, where it had been stuck in the charging position last night.

I honk my horn to test the voltage of my system, and it is hit and miss right now. Sometimes a strong blast, other times a pitiful flacid attempt at a honk.

Seems like a broken wire connection, broken wire, or bad regulator.

If the regulator sticks in the charging config., then it will overcharge. Personally, I hate the relay-type regulator. Even when they are working perfectly, they are crap. They let the voltage fluctuate too much and any vibration can screw them up. Moisture and heat also mess them up.

The regulator is the weak link in the otherwise good charging system. You should get a new one from www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com . They are solid state and seem like a good value. He lists it as for a "B" model, but trhe 1977 "C" is the same. I should send him an email to clarify what years and models it's compatible with.


Qdude wrote:

I have been messing with the rested position of the arm by bending tabs and such, as this had been a quick fix in the past. I think that I may have put it way out of adjustment.

I dont have my voltmeter or manual with me right now, they are 25 miles away and I am reluctant to go on the highway right now.

What is the normal action of the arm, key off, on.

I am ordering another regulator online now.
Is there a chance that I did not need to, and perhaps I should check for problems elsewhere.

This occured right after I degreased my engine and painted it. Pressure washing, caustic chemical, wire jostling or incompetance on my part all factor in.

Any suggestions as to where to go from here experts?

As always, help greatly appreciated, and expected :0..

Q<br><br>Post edited by: Qdude, at: 2007/08/03 17:02


Like I said, even a brand new old stock one ($150 on ebay) should be replaced with a solid-state version, in my opinion. I just finished making one for a KZ400 which uses the same type as your 77 650. It works so much better when it's solid-state. :)

.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/08/03 22:15
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HELP regulator woes 77650 04 Aug 2007 01:58 #161671

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Thanks Lou.

I have already sent off an E-mail to see if Tony has one in stock right now. Thanks for clarifying the "B" - "C" model snafu, I wasn't sure if that one would work or not.

48. dollars plus 16 bucks for overnight shipping, sweet. Get me back on the road again.

thanks again.

Q
77 KZ 650 C1.
77 KZ 650 C1.
Crashed-Repaired, Pods, Kerker pipe, re-wired core bundle, lamp upgraded, homemade rectifier, solid state regulator , Dyna-s ignition, repainted, slightly modified, year-round commuter
Honda Metro 85 mpg Scooter. Dont laugh I will throw it at you

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

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