TOPIC:

How does the accelerator pump setting affect engine performance, and is a particular adjustment preferred (other than 1/4-3/4 throttle) for road riding?

I leave them alone and tune each circuit.

I know guys that set it to come on at 1/8th throttle. I set mine to 3/4 which I believe is the suggested st ok can configuration, as it can always be adjusted. That being said I am running RS34'S and you sir are running RS36'S. That being said you may need the accelerator pump to come on sooner to deal with the amount of air when you whack open the throttle. When I ran the 36's I had them set to 1/2 throttle; I still had to roll the throttle.

Still not sure what I'm doing with these carbs. Float heights 17 or 19mm? RS manual says 17+/- and HS40 says 19+/- 2mm
I'm also confused about the pilot fuel screw adjustment. According to the RS owners manual, they are supposed to be set between 1/8 and 1/2 turn out, but the HS40 is between 1/4 and 3 1/2

If the engine runs better at 1 1/2 turns (for instance), does that mean the carbs need richer pilot jets installed, or is it acceptable to run them with the pilot screws set that far out?

As for float level set to where the carbs don't drain fuel out overflow while on the side stand. I started at 17mm and raised them until they stopped over flowing which was 19mm. Is the clear tube method not working for you? The pilot screw on the RS carbs can be screw out to 3 1/2 turns max. 1/2 turn is the recommended starting point per the RS manual. Dave, don't you had a color tune?

Just what I needed to know.
Curved each float tab slightly to clear the valve rim, and also set them to 19mm. at the tips.
I was concerned about going beyond the 1/2 turn out limit implied in the RS manual, so your tidbit is reassuring. With the Color Tune, my adjustments were well-beyond 1/2 turn and may have been a little too-rich. I'll try that again, and go a little bluer this time.

Everyone's comments and suggestions here are incredible. A lot of us need answers and assurances, and the value of this forum for that is extraordinary. So, thanks again and ride-on...

kaw-a-holic wrote: As for float level set to where the carbs don't drain fuel out overflow while on the side stand. I started at 17mm and raised them until they stopped over flowing which was 19mm. Is the clear tube method not working for you? The pilot screw on the RS carbs can be screw out to 3 1/2 turns max. 1/2 turn is the recommended starting point per the RS manual. Dave, don't you had a color tune?

Jon, I'm using the carbs as originally jetted from Mikuni, having replaced the 15.0 pilot jets that the PO had in them with a new set of 17.5 and removed the 132.5 main jets for a set of 130's.
To follow up my last post regarding the pilot screws, I played around with the turns-out by ear instead of with the Gunson this time. From lightly-seated I rotated each 1.5 turns out with the engine idling at operating temperature. That is where the idle began to stumble, so I turned each half-way back ending up at 3/4 out, where it runs much better.
Actually, the thing runs like the shackles have been stripped off. I'm almost afraid to goose it too much for fear of landing on my ass in the middle of the road, while the riderless beast flies into the horizon.

Why does Mikuni want me to use pod filters instead of the air box...when it works so-well?

Dave, I think it's fantastic that they work well with the air box. I would have to say Mikuni wants you to run pods because they are intended for race use, most guys don't run air boxes on race bikes. Do you have it on the road yet? Don't forget to also check out your plugs for proper color. The Color Tune worked really well for me.

Yes sir, the air box proves this is not a race bike.

...and those rubber boots are not disguised velocity stacks, either.

Looks like they're outside the air box. Too short?
Steve

swest wrote: Looks like they're outside the air box. Too short?
Steve

The boots were moved out/forward to fit, because the RS carbs are 3/8"shorter (front to back) than the BS34 carbs the boots were designed for. The very-end portion of each boot fits snugly inside the air box holes, while providing the necessary seal.

Notice the 2nd. notch:
www.z1enterprises.com/product/14073-1055X4

Would the longer carb holders have made it fit?
Steve