TOPIC:

I have a set of pumper carbs that I'm trying to get some info on, like float height, rebuild info.

The numbers on the flange is as follows 108 with a 4 under the 108, and p8 with y5 under the p8.

Look like stock kz650 mikuni vm24s to me

floivanus wrote: Look like stock kz650 mikuni vm24s to me

...w/accel pump.

floivanus wrote: Look like stock kz650 mikuni vm24s to me

Thanks....would you happen to know about the float height? Where would I find the specks on this set of carbs?

!Seymore wrote:

floivanus wrote: Look like stock kz650 mikuni vm24s to me

...w/accel pump.

Thanks.....where would find the specks on this set of carbs?

Best place is to find a shop manual or a haynes, maybe wait for 650ed to pop in and give ya some info. (He apparently loves 650s)

The "correct" float height is whatever it happens to be when producing the proper fuel level as shown by the clear tube test.

Where the fuel level is really screwed up, setting the upside-down on-the-bench dry-measured float height should get back in the ball park.
But even with float heights set exactly the same, measured fuel levels will likely vary among the carbs.

When the fuel levels are within specs (important), the measured float heights will likely all be slightly different (unimportant).

Carbs care about actual fuel level. Carbs don't care about what the measured float height happens to be so long as the fuel level is within specs.

The desired objective is to achieve correct fuel levels -- not measured float heights.

The clear tube test shows the actual fuel level inside the float bowl.
The tang adjustments are done incident to achieving the correct fuel level.





The above illustration depicts a clear tube of appropriate outside diameter being self-threaded/wedged into the float bowl drain hole, whereby the special tool is unnecessary.

Some minimal leakage won't affect the results, because fuel volume entering the bowl exceeds any leakage.

When gasoline fumes get bothersome while clear tube testing between float height adjustments, I have used common household rubbing alcohol instead of gasoline. The slightly heavier alcohol won't significantly affect the float buoyancy.
Odorless mineral spirits may also be used, which is even closer to the density of gasoline.
The kitchen table is often found to be a good comfortable place to do this testing and adjusting.

A time-saving tip (courtesy of wiredgeorge) is to use only a single screw to hold the float bowl onto the carb during the clear tube test, which makes it easier and faster to r&r the bowl between tang adjustments.
Likely won't leak at all, but minimal leakage through the gasket area won't invalidate results of the clear tube test.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote: The "correct" float height is whatever it happens to be when producing the proper fuel level as shown by the clear tube test.

Where the fuel level is really screwed up, setting the upside-down on-the-bench dry-measured float height should get back in the ball park.
But even with float heights set exactly the same, measured fuel levels will likely vary among the carbs.

When the fuel levels are within specs (important), the measured float heights will likely all be slightly different (unimportant).

Carbs care about actual fuel level. Carbs don't care about what the measured float height happens to be so long as the fuel level is within specs.

The desired objective is to achieve correct fuel levels -- not measured float heights.

The clear tube test shows the actual fuel level inside the float bowl.
The tang adjustments are done incident to achieving the correct fuel level.

The above illustration depicts a clear tube of appropriate outside diameter being self-threaded/wedged into the float bowl drain hole, whereby the special tool is unnecessary.

Some minimal leakage won't affect the results, because fuel volume entering the bowl exceeds any leakage.

When gasoline fumes get bothersome while clear tube testing between float height adjustments, I have used common household rubbing alcohol instead of gasoline. The slightly heavier alcohol won't significantly affect the float buoyancy.
Odorless mineral spirits may also be used, which is even closer to the density of gasoline.
The kitchen table is often found to be a good comfortable place to do this testing and adjusting.

A time-saving tip (courtesy of wiredgeorge) is to use only a single screw to hold the float bowl onto the carb during the clear tube test, which makes it easier and faster to r&r the bowl between tang adjustments.
Likely won't leak at all, but minimal leakage through the gasket area won't invalidate results of the clear tube test.

Good Fortune!

Yes, thank you. I found a thread on this very method. I just came in from 2 1/2 hrs of clear tube method and they were not too far off one of the floats was right on. Wiredgeorge is a smart man, because i used all 4 screws.

KawC2 wrote:

!Seymore wrote:

floivanus wrote: Look like stock kz650 mikuni vm24s to me

...w/accel pump.

Thanks.....where would find the specks on this set of carbs?

In a Kawasaki Factory Service Manual (FSM). Available used on eBay. Make sure the FSM covers your model/year. This info is usually on the back cover. You can find them from $30-50... worth every dime!

!Seymore wrote:

KawC2 wrote:

!Seymore wrote:

floivanus wrote: Look like stock kz650 mikuni vm24s to me

...w/accel pump.

Thanks.....where would find the specks on this set of carbs?

In a Kawasaki Factory Service Manual (FSM). Available used on eBay. Make sure the FSM covers your model/year. This info is usually on the back cover. You can find them from $30-50... worth every dime!

Thanks....I will keep my eye open for one.

Thanks again, Seymore