TOPIC:

I think I may have to bench sync mine again. I used 1 drill bit and moved it to whatever carb is was setting the height on. I see now that I need to use 2 drill bits of the same size. I also had problems getting my slides on the pod side to all the down snug on the 1/8 drill bit. Any reason for that ?

not enough slack in throttle cable?

I did the bench sync with the carbs off of the bike. Was I suppose to disconnect the spring when doing the bench sync ?

No, you don't have to remove the spring. Doing so just makes it easier & lessens the chance of buggering the bottom of the slides.

After benching syncing, is there suppose to be a gap on the intake side of the carb ? I am not sure if there is or not on mine.

The gaps are small, but should be visible (see image below).

Two separate carb syncs are involved, both having to do with slide heights.

BENCH SYNC. First the bench sync, with carbs on the work bench, where the equal gaps are used to equalize the slide heights.
This is a baseline setting, because the gaps will usually require later further adjustment for best low RPM performance on a running engine.

ENGINE RUNNING SYNC. Later with engine running comes another carb sync, where the slide heights are again individually readjusted to achieve best equalization of performance among the cylinders at idle rpm.

Good Fortune.

[Click on image to enlarge view.]

I don't have a wire gauge. Will a paper clip or clothes hanger do to set the gap on the engine side ?

Small paper clip should be okay, on engine side.

The gaps will be re-adjusted anyway when doing the final sync on running engine.
But it's nice to set the gaps as equal as possible during the bench sync.

When doing the bench sync, remember to leave sufficient thread remaining on the idle screw to go either way (higher or lower idle speed) later on during the final sych while engine's running.

Good Fortune!

I took my carbs back off today and did the bench sync. Put the carbs back on and the bike would not start. Took the carbs back off and checked the spark plugs and plugs 2 and 3 were not firing. Found that one of the wires got pulled loose when I took the throttle cables off. Connected the wire back up and check the carbs again and they were good. Put them back on and the bike fired right up and idled good. Will be doing the mercury sync on them tomrrow. Hopefully this will get my idling situation fixed. Will let you know.

Went to start the bike this morning and noticed that the choke did not seem to be working. Got the bike started by twisting the throttle. After warming up, did the mercury sync and the bike seems to idle good now. Now I need to find out what is wrong with the choke.

BIGKEVIN wrote:

Went to start the bike this morning and noticed that the choke did not seem to be working. Got the bike started by twisting the throttle. After warming up, did the mercury sync and the bike seems to idle good now. Now I need to find out what is wrong with the choke.

Choke (more accurately: enrichener circuit) is designed to best function without even touching the handlebar throttle grip.

When first starting a cold engine, pull choke fully ON, and don't touch the throttle -- don't touch the throttle -- until the engine is running.

twisting the throttle is reducing effect of the choke while trying to start the engine.
Where twisting the throttle is required to start the engine, I would suspect an issue in the pilot circuit or perhaps fuel level being too high, or dirty or obstructed air filter.

Good Fortune!

I just went out and tried starting teh bike again. With the choke pulled all the way up, the bike would start but then if the choke was let go of, the bike would stop running. If I turned the choke off and twist the throttle, the bike would start, but would not stay started without twisting the throttle.