TOPIC:

OOOH NOOOOO. i cant believe what just happened. I think I’m going to be sick. Dam <*)&#@>F***k,f***k,F***K
i just received a set of used rs34's in excellent condition. i want to take them apart and clean them since they have sat unused.
i removed the bowls and saw 1 of the float pins had backed out a bit, so i removed it. i taped on the next 1 with a punch and hammer and the opposite leg broke off. F***K. it turns out the pin was seized in the entry leg. so how can i repair this? also i'm afraid to remove the rest, ideas?

Remember be something. I've done the same thing a few months ago.

Check this link:

kzrider.com/component/option,com_joomlab...w/catid,3/id,142450/

JD weld had work fine for me. Got it at Canadian Tire for 10$.

Good luck!

I know all to well how you feel. I've had this happen to me before too. I don't know how much room you have to work with but I remounted the broken peice will JBWeld. Then I made a thin crust around the whole leg with it. I gave it a hour to start setting up, then I baked the body in a 250 degree oven for a couple hours. It takes a super hard set when you bake it. Then I used a small file to trim the inner edge where the float swings. All is not lost.
As far as the other carbs go, spray them with PB Blaster and let it soak in well.
Good luck and ride safe.

Now thats the best news i've had in a while .Thanks man. and here is Georges Great responce(as usual) so all can see.

Sorry... I guess I see so darn many broken posts on BS34s it is funny to me. The reason is that the float pin fits sooooo tightly in the holes in the post that folks will get it tapped out just a tad and then put a set of vise grips on the end and tug it out. The vise grips distort the already tight end just a tad and the next time you try to put the pin back in or remove it, it will stick... Then when you try to punch it out the pin will just snap off cleanly. One of my competitors charges over $100 to do "post repair"... it is simply a matter of cleaning the mating surfaces with a Dremel/wire brush attatchment a bit and mixing some JB Weld. Just don't try and clean the JB Weld off too much... it must cover the crack on the outside to be strong and (you have already cleaned up the end of the pin with a file), stick the pin in through both holes while it dries to ensure the holes line up... Once dry, take a drill bit that is only just a shade larger than the holes and drill through both of them before reinserting the pin... with a clean edge on the pin and the hole cleaned out, the pin will fit a tad loose but the shape of the float bowl cover will ensure it can't come out. I have fixed about a dozen of those darn pins in the past week... sorry for the "belly laugh"... I guess I was the only one amused but I get this vision of BS34 owners with a hammer and vise grips getting those sticky pins loose. Oh yeah, I use a special dental pick to remove the pins. The pick is pretty stout for a dental pin and I cut off a bit of the sharp tip. The other end was cut so I can use the pick as a punch. You have to tap firmly and confidently without getting too much pick in the hole where it wedges. Once the pin is moved a bit, you can stick a nail (brad really) in the hole and tap that with a punch to move the pin. In the event the pin doesn't budge because of previous abuse to the end, you can drill the pin out (cobalt bit best) and use another pin... they will break sometimes, no matter how careful you are.

The Milkman wrote:

As far as the other carbs go, spray them with PB Blaster and let it soak in well.
Good luck and ride safe.

i'm not sure what pb blaster is but i have the carbs soaking (just up to the pins tops)in liquid wrench. hopefully they will be fine.

clean the spot off WELL, then use jb weld. i did the same thing once. when done properly, the jb weld will suffice. good luck.

oh man, mark
if you dont know what PB blaster is, then you need to find out - its only some of the best anti seize, anti suck fluid available in an aerosol can!

Had the same thing happen on a snowmobile carb,Mark...and yes...JB Weld does work...worked for years in My sled,and with a lot of bashing and pounding going on(and rolling down the side of a mountain,lol...ow:S ).

That sled is no longer,but the carbs are shelved(spares),and still in tact after about 13 years.

There are many aluminum repair epoxies out on the market. I have used this stuff on a broken carb bowl, and shift shaft pivot on the crankcase:
www.superkleendirect.com/index.asp?PageA...n=VIEWPROD&ProdID=66


This stuff sets hard enough that you could machine from it.


BEFORE REPAIRS



AFTER REPAIRS

Jerry.Thanks, i have not seen that 1 before.i will try it next time i run out.
Sandy.Thats good to know that there is proof that it lasts.i have heard from another that the J.B. goes funky in gas after some time. have u noticed any deterioration?
Corey,that looks like good stuff too.Wich product is it? the link just takes me to the index page? have u found this impervious to gas? any better than JB or just another option.?

I can answer that one.
Yes, it will go funky submerged in gas after a while.
Had to take my weedwacker's carb apart for something and this little aluminum disc popped out somehow. It was just pressed in, but I couldn't get it to stay in, so I whipped out the JB Weld and glued the disc in the hole.
Worked great for about two years. When I took it back apart, I could see that the JB Weld had gotten soft and mushy.
But it did last two years inside a carburator.
I just glued it back in for another two years.

Here it is:


DEVCON 10610 Aluminum Putty (F) 1 lb.

"Aluminum Putty (F) Aluminum-filled epoxy putty for dependable non-rusting repairs to aluminum castings - machinery and equipment widely used in HVAC applications. Repairs air conditioning system components Listed under NSN Stock #8030-00-051-4511; #8030-00-670-8553 Bonds to aluminum and many other metals Fills porosity in aluminum castings Can be machined drilled or tapped using conventional metalworking tools Qualifies under Mil Spec DOD-C-24176B(SH) Type II Stock Number Product Size 10610 Aluminum Putty (F) 1 lb. 10620 Aluminum Putty (F) 3 lb."